Rain Forest Photos

I now have  time to organize some of the photos from our summer adventure...  This week's photos focus on the Kapawi rain forest eco lodge...

There were three blogs posted at the time... the first of the 3 is here: http://johnzlatnik.blogspot.com/2013/07/untitled.html

Our welcoming committee upon arrival at our landing strip in the eastern "Selva" of Ecuador

We had to fly  for over an hour over dense rain forest like this to reach the location of our eco lodge

The lodge is maintained and managed by the Achuar people - the local indigenous group

Here is our guide... incredible knowledgable about the plants of the forest, and their uses

We woke early at 6 each morning to travel by canoe to look for wild life... Then back for breakfast... then off on a 4 hour hike in the forest...

River "traffic"

It is called rain forest for good reason... We were provided with high boots  that usually protected us from the mud... but not always...

Our two guides located and identified birds, plants, insects... and explained their uses to us.

The forest had many game trails and it would be very easy to get lost without a guide.

Our house... Beneath us was a bog with the loudest frogs that serenaded us each night.

The fish in the bog controlled the mosquitos, of which we saw few!

Also the temperatures were never super hot and humid...

Leaf cutter ants - cut pieces of leaves, carry them underground, to grow fungus!

Three large monkeys overhead!

The motor canoe that took us to our hike locations, early morning sightings, village visits...

Shaman holding a bowl of the manioc beer that was offered to us - and its bad manners to refuse...

Open air Achuar home - we visited two villages and were invited into two homes for formal visits 

On the wall of the village school - student work in the Ashuar language...

Me with my face painted in traditional Achuar "jaguar" markings

Going Home Notes

Now that I have recovered my camera from the weaver (read the last blog), I have photos to share with those interested! It has not been possible for me to process photos as we were travelled. My intention is to process one set of the trip photos at a time and make them available over a period of Friday's as additional links to this blog.

Thursday: Here we are aboard a LAN aircraft headed north! Well over 40,000 ft. because the stratosphere is higher here than our latitude at home...Today Lima, tomorrow SFO! Sadly the sky is cloudy, so no good view of the Andes Mts...

I am drawn to this free life of a gypsy! When I was a young pup I first discovered this attraction while hitchhiking in Europe and the Middle East. I enjoy the challenges and satisfaction that comes from the daily encounters with uncertainty...reading maps, trying to communicate in foreign languages...making quick choices with limited information...adapting to local customs and foods. And the satisfaction that comes from dealing with these situations successfully....I enjoy the quick friendships that develop in hostels, the sharing of stories and information.. Still, once at home I am quite content to tend my garden and work with my student teachers. Like my mother used to say, "Its good to go away, but its good to come home."

Wednesday was our last day in Cusco ...As we walked up the hill by our hotel, we saw a sign on the door of a Carmelite convent, saying that the sisters there made and sold ice cream. We entered a large empty stone church hall, and in quite a dark corner we found a sign listing the foods that were available. It was not possible to see the person who was selling the food...but through a sort of revolving wooden round-e-round I spoke aloud into the void what it was that I wanted. A voice answered to me also from out of the void and the order was arranged... Money was paid and the ice cream delivered. It was almost a religious experience! The voice that I spoke with sounded like a cheerful young woman. The ice cream was delicious!

... So much yet to see and do... .there is only one solution...we must return to Peru! Judy had not yet visited the great "Mercado,de San Pedro" ..the grand Cusco community market. (It is a place that I keep returning to...). I love the little bit chaotic fluidity of the place..so much activity ...so many goods bought and sold... We went today, and Judy bought several nice pieces of weaving and clothing, and chocolate!.. I really like the warm wool poncho that I bought for our Northern California winters!

Judy has a friend in California who is interested in the uses of quinoa, a traditional grain food of the Inca people. It is served quite a lot here and is becoming quite well known in the US. It can be.added to a variety of dishes in creative ways. The grain is high in protein, lower in starch, and it has a pleasant flavor, the cooked grains are smaller than cooked rice. In the mercado we bought three varieties... Black, red, and white colored grains. I was also able to purchase samples of small globular gourds, and hopefully I can convince some of the seeds to grow in my garden.j

One of my greatest satisfactions of this trip has been my improved ability to converse in Spanish...I am far from a proficient speaker...and my ability to use correct grammar is enough to make a language teacher want to tear out his or her hair, but I have a fair working vocabulary and just by being here, it has been necessary for me to use my Spanish all the time, I have become more fluent. Here I "just talk" to people...and I don't worry if I make mistakes in grammar.

Conversation with a cab driver ... "The only real industry in Cusco is the tourist industry...there is only very limited manufacturing, the long dry season and lack of irrigation limit farming, but the tourists keep coming, perhaps it is the lure of the Inca history and the renown fame of Machu Picchu that bring the people!"

One final observation...the streets of Peruvian cities and towns are amazingly free of litter..! We often see home and shop owners sweeping a large clear area outside of their properties. There are an impressive number of paid street cleaners, but the pride that people take in maintaing clean streets is impressive... Peru can be called a developing nation...a second world country...but far above the economic and social disorder of third world countries.

Thursday...LAN aircraft flying north parallel to the S American coast...We expect to arrive home mid afternoon! This airline serves "real" food!

Later - we are home safe and sound... 6 weeks traveling and eating all kinds of things and neither of us was sick at all...

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Unexpected surprises!

Just when we thought our adventures on this trip were coming to an end... chance events added surprise! We left our beautiful town of Ollantaytembo with its cloud draped mountains and steep cliffs, we walked down the narrow cobble stone street, until we reached the plaza. It had rained in the night and the peaks around us were covered with fresh snow. We hunted for and quickly found a 15 passenger collectivo mini van...the drivers only leave when the van is full, and we were the last two to board. Traveling through the beautiful farmland of the Inca's Sacred Valley, we reached the town of Urumbamba. Here we switched to a smaller collectivo that would take us to Chinchero, an indigenous Andean village situated at above 12,000 feet. It is located on the "Alto Plano"...a high plane in the Andes with rich farming opportunities, for plants adapted to this climate. Here we found a motorcycle with 2 passenger seats , with a sort of fabric tent to protect us from the wind...Our driver took us down a side road to the location of a large country fair...What luck!,...this fair was held only once a year ...and we happened to be here! The fair is held of, by, and for, the local indigenous community... The women were dressed in colorful (mostly red with black accent) hand woven dresses, vests, shawls, and distinctive hats. We looked around and found ourselves to be the only outsiders present...But we felt wecome and talked freely with the people. We found livestock, crops, a huge variety of potatoes, and the weavers markets. Judy's eyes lit up at the wide variety and high quality of weaving offered...plus the benefit of knowing that all profits from anything we bought would go directly to the weaver. There was also guinea pig racing, and the prettiest guerra pig judging...they were all dressed up in beautiful clothing! There were also food booths where among other things you could get roasted guinea pig. The Chicha...homemade Peruvian beer booth seemed to be very popular with some of the men. I also enjoyed the cows, bulls, sheep,pigs, and goats on display and for sale.
After several hours of looking, talking, and bargaining we decided it was time to return to Cusco. We took a collectivo back to the town center of Chincherno, to locate a mini van for the trip back into Cusco. As we stood waiting I checked for my camera...and it wasn't there...What a sinking feeling...my good camera and 6 weeks of stored photos! I quickly searched my day-pack with no success...I couldn't give up with at least trying to return to the fair...After a quick ride back...I started walking across the fair grounds to the grand stand with the half baked idea of asking the guy with the microphone to announce that I would offer a reward for the return of the camera. Just then I felt a hand on my shoulder...and an indigenous woman weaver with whom we had bargained earlier said."Yo tengo algo de ustedes!" (I have something of yours! )... I absolutely could not believe my ears! But I was soon rejoined with my camera. It must have dropped from my pocket when I tried on a sweater... The local culture would never permit the people to ask for a reward...but I paid the two people involved with a generous "propina" (gift).
Monday... Nice to wake up back at the Ninos Hotel in Cusco...the place is simple but comfortable. Our major task of the day was to hunt down an artist that we had seen on display three days ago.He had invited us to his studio to see more of his work. We are especially drawn to his sensitive portrayal of the faces of the people of Peru. His studio was that of a prolific and varied artist with unusual skill. He was an older man, who had painted his whole adult life, who loved painting the people, landscapes, cultures of Peru, and he was successful as an artist! His work range from an accurate realism, to some quite abstract pieces with great color and texture balance. We bought pieces of his work...now the task will be to get them home. True to his tradition he invited us to join himself and his wife for lunch in a nice restaurant. It was a treat on well prepared Peruvian food.
I expect this will be the last of this series of travel blogs... We return home on Thursday... It has been an incredible six week "viaje", with so many experiences, faces, and good people! If you have enjoyed this blog I normally post a new blog each Friday dealing with a variety of topics throughout the year... I hope you will stay tuned in...

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The Many Faces of Machu Picchu...

Soon after dawn the sun brightens the high peaks above the town of Ollataytembo. This is a place of early morning water sounds and bird sounds. Soon sunlight falls on the yellow golden stone Inca ruins on the hills above the town. This is a place to which we would like to return! But today we must make our next move and take the train to Aguas Caliente... It is the first train that I have ever encountered to declare a strict limit on the weight of luggage permitted... (Which we later found that they didn't enforce). We had to decide what to store here in the Apu Lodge where we are staying in Oyataytembo.

Do you remember the scene in the Hobbit movie where the intrepid band of adventurers enters a region of high steep mountains and rushing water...? Strange plants hang from the trees, the rocks forming steep cliffs down to the river. Hanging bridges cross the rushing rivers. Well, that was us today as we entered Aguas Caliente, the gateway to Machu Pichu. It is quite remote with only two means of entrance... Walking or a little narrow gauge railroad that never quite got its rails leveled. The train chugs it's way through the valley as the route gets ever more extreme.

Friday...

Today we made it to Machu Picchu... What a grand experience! We were advised that is is very important to get there early before the tour busses arrived in late morning... Today it was raining lightly at 4: 30 am as we left the hotel... This is pretty typical Machu Picchu weather (It is after all rainforest.) We discovered a great long line of others at the bus station, with the same plan in mind. Several buses left at 5: 30.. And we were on the 3rd one. After a 30 minute ride we were deposited at the entrance to Machu Picchu. Our first moments were a little confused... Dawn was just breaking, and us without coffee. We were dressed in rain gear, but the rain made reading guide book difficult. Thunder roared and lightning flashed to add to the drama of the moment. Once we located a point of reference that we could identify the morning became easier. We had the trails pretty much to ourselves as the day brightened. The first face of Machu Picchu that we saw was the surreal moving misty clouds giving us momentary peeks at the landscape...The experience was quite mystical! The large stone features were softened and blurred in the foggy light... At times a clear expanse would show and then vanish within minutes. About 8 AM, I climbed up through the fog to reach the "watchman's cottage". I knew that I was very high and exposed but I could see little through the clouds... Suddenly a miracle occurred and the fog vanished and I looked down on the grand vista of Machu Picchu stretched out before me... For the next hour as conditions cleared..,I could see that in fact I was on a very high ridge that looked out at vast cliffs and peaks of dramatic height and depth...in all directions! Here are the stone remains of a significant city...a center of political and religious power. Even today the careful city planning to supply water, drainage, access to food, communication with the other parts of the empire serve as a brilliant example of public works that are both functional and beautiful. .

We continued our explorations and noticed that we were acquiring shadows ... The sun showed and strengthened as the day progressed... Now we could appreciate the green meadows among the stone buildings.

One wrinkle to the day was that my cameras, first one, and then my backup camera, malfunctioned because of the light rain that had fallen on them. With the bright sun shining we took a break for a snack, at the same time we discovered that all of our critical papers in the day pack had become soggy with the rain... So we carefully spread out the wet papers to dry, and also put the cameras in the sun... After the food, I checked my good camera and found it had returned to life...Soon after, the second camera was also doing well.

Judy preferred to sit and enjoy the view and I went off to capture the photos that I had missed earlier due to camera problems. By 10 am the scene changed considerably... Train loads of visitors from Cusco arrived and took the bus up to M. P. Suddenly we were sharing the site with great swarms of visitors. Most visitors were in groups with a guide giving dates and details... We know that our retention from such guide talks is poor...and we do better reading a guidebook and traveling on our own. Guides were speaking to their groups in Spanish, English, Japanese, Italian, French, German, and maybe a few other languages. Still the whole scene was so special we were in no hurry to leave.

We left Machu Picchu by mid afternoon with a happy and satisfied feeling that we had seen at least some of the faces of Machu Picchu. ... And in the process had caught a glimpse of the people who had built this amazing city.

 

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The Glories of Cusco...and Beyond

There is much unique about Cusco! It is over11000ft in elevation, which means that when you arrive it is necessary to move slowly, until you acclimate. August is in the dry season, and the skies are a deep and beautiful blue. Cusco was an early center of Inca cultural life and many of the faces that I pass in the street are Inca to the core. The city is built of well crafted stone blocks skillfully cut and fitted together in the tradition of the Inca. Many of the streets are beautiful in their stone work and classic narrowness, they are interspersed with large public plazas and many fine churches that give the flavor of the Spanish masters who ruled the country from very early years. Openinf off of the streets, many doorways open into comfortable patios. It is a city well suited to pedestrians, notably missing the traffic and smoke of Quito.

Yesterday early I went into the large enclosed market... Where the people of Cusco buy their daily vegetables, meat, rice, herbs, fruit, but also clothing and household items... The mood of the place in marked by friendly exchange between buyers and sellers... It is hectic but with a certain order... I was astounded to see the huge varieties of potatoes and corn varieties offered for sale... I loved using my Spanish to converse with the women selling medicinal herbs, the sellers of quinoa and chocolate, the stalls with incense and dried fish. I found it amazing to see sacks filled with coca leaves that the local people chew to prevent fatigue, especially when working at high elevation... Apparently there are a lot of coca leaf users here! Some guidebooks recommend to visitors to use the leaves or a tea to prevent headaches from the altitude. And no it is not a form of cocaine or other serious drug. There is also a section of the market that offers fast food service by local food sellers... providing either the sit down breakfast to the many merchants and shoppers.

The city has been skillfully planned to offer neighborhoods limited to the chic tourist trade... hotels and restaurants... But has maintained other sections that are very indigenous and maintain the traditions and life of the people. I fear that some visitors come here and never see the real city or encounter the marvelous people of Cusco. I feel totally safe wandering through the markets even though I am usually the only non local person in sight. I am very discrete in the photos of people that I take.

The history of Cusco is both wonderful and sad. This was the home of the greatest of the Inca palaces and temples... The center of a vast economy... The center of advanced knowledge of medicine, plant science, mathematics, cosmology... exceeding the knowledge in Europe at the time. Scholars still disagree about why the Spanish invasion succeeded, at a time when the Spanish Inquisitions were producing a reign of intolerance and fear in Spain. It was a time when cruelty and greed were normal. First the invaders stole anything made of gold... All the fine delicate work of the people and the institutions was melted down and shipped to Spain. The Spanish rulers required the people to produce or grow products which were shipped off to Spain...It was a time of impoverishment of a whole people. Finally the Inca people were forced to give up their cultural ways... As a result much of the knowledge of the Inca was irretrievably lost.As a last attempt to remove Inca culture the people were required dress as Europeans and speak only Spanish. It was a devastating period in human history! The brutality knew no bounds. Of course humans are resilient to a point... Of course the genetic pool of the Inca is still very much present. Here are now found nearly pure Inca people, Mestisos (those of mixed heritage), and those of European ancestry. The Spanish were ultimately driven out and remnants of the traditional life have been recovered and are now valued. Still the shadow of the great destructive Spanish period remain. Even the museums have only limited collections to offer.

Often the hostels and hotels where Judy and I stay are shared with European travelers and backpackers. We Prefer to stay in places that offer a flavor of the country and opportunities to talk to fellow travelers.. We are currently staying in the Ninos hotel in Cusco... The profits from this small hotel go to support a program that supports local street children. It is simple, clean, and provides fantastic breakfasts. In a place like this it is natural that everyone is your new best friend... We meet very interesting people from the world over! Some of the rooms have private baths... But we could not reserve one of these. The common bathroom is a bit different. It is used by both men and women... There is one shared closed off shows and two shared closed off toilets.. First come first served... One sink. This morning when I entered the bathroom, I found a young woman from Australia brushing her teeth, we greeted each other and both went about our business... I think these folks have a real common sense idea!

... Later...

We made it from Cusco to Alyatantembo in about an hour and a half! And it was an awesome ride in a 10 passenger collectivo minibus. Awesome especially because it was over a rugged Andean mountain road... Two lanes... And here in a land where driving is a competitive sport... And the object is to call the other drivers bluff! The scenery is awesome! We are now in a rugged valley of Alyatantembo...a charming town...one of the most genuine Incan towns with its narrow lanes, fantastic stone work, and a stone channel for clear running mountain water in each lane

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Organic Food the Natural way

We travelled this past week into the high green hills and valleys of Ecuador. Here many small property holders are living with the land as their only asset. These small independent farmers who are trying to make a living in the complex markets of today start out with a disadvantage. Many are farming as their fathers did. Imagine what a difference it makes to be part of a collective that provides low cost loans and training in new products and farming methods.

To get a sense of what these farmers are doing, we visited a number of small family farmers who have been trained and certified in organic farming methods. They sell their produce in large twice a week farmers markets in larger more prosperous towns. It is direct marketing from farmer to consumer! The organic portion of the market attracts many more customers, despite the fact that that the produce is a bit more expensive. Customers are attracted by the fresh, higher quality, tastier organic products. A small land holder can make a good living in this way.

There is growing interest in locating and preserving the seeds and knowledge the are part of the indigenous heritage of Ecuador... High in the mountains and valleys these treasures can still be found. Varieties from the coastal regions are more likely to have been lost due to more intensive farming methods on mono culture crops like bananas. The recovered crops are a genetic treasure with products that can be sold commercially and genetic information available for cross breeding to develop new varieties.

The cooperative groups provide a range of services, from sharing of seeds, collecting and sharing techniques, providing in depth training in new methods. A farmer can take a low interest Heifer project loan, spend it on tools, seeds, training, land... And then pay back the loan from their increased income. The interest collected serves as the basis for "passing on the gift" to other farmers.

The indigenous farmers made great use of companion planting.. The beneficial interaction between plants grown close together. They do not plant in uniform rows or clumps... But inter spaced crops were grown in natural communities as might be found in nature... The soil was always occupied (year round growing season here)... The soil is never bare, thus preventing drying. Plants are continually added and taken out when harvested. Some plants that we might call weeds are permitted to grow because of their contribution to the soil economy. Large "weeds" that steal the sunlight from crops are removed. This concept of growing plants in communities is called agroecology. Growing diverse crops is beneficial in the farmers market economy. For example 18 varieties of potatoes are grown for their diverse flavors and food qualities. Some plant varieties are included in the community for their ability to repel harmful insects or to attract beneficial ones.

The proof of this system and training is in the results. Training and cooperative support have led many farmers in this region to self sufficiency and economic success.

Neighboring farms plowed by a tractor, practicing monoculture agriculture with only one crop, are much more prone to insect invasions requiring pesticides, in need of soil enrichment with commercial fertilizers (unneeded with the plant communities and compost fertilization), and are subject to the drying of the soil since the dirt is not covered with the mixed plant community. The idea is to let nature do the work...adapt to the natural ways of plants and soil.

Some farmers add to the diversity by also growing animals... Guinea pigs, rabbits, cows, sheet... Selling the meat and using the "poop" in the compost. The ideas, the training, the seeds and animals, the funding, and the passing on of the gift are all part of the Heifer concept. The concept is flexible dependent on local conditions and resources... We saw a trout farm that made use of clear cold spring water to make ponds that support a restaurant and farmers market... More Heifer training and start up money at work,.

 

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Bananas and Chocolate...Ecuadorian Style

One of the basic premises of Heifer International is that of "passing on the gift". In the case of livestock that is the simple matter of gifting the first offspring of your cow or chickens to someone else so that more can benefit. On this study trip we have seen the concept expanded to include the funding of co-ops and creation of "seed money" to start and expand farming practices to become better adapted for the world markets today.

Wednesday we travelled high into the cloud forest of Ecuador to visit a small town engaged in banana and cacao production. The local farm association met with us to present to us what they had done and their goals.

The farm that we visited was high on a hill, up a steep slippery muddy trail, that led to the family home and banana processing location. There were also a motley group of barking dogs... The farm contained both cacao and bananas inter grown with other... However the primary crop was bananas.

Interest rates, for farm expansion, are very high for farmers... And Heifer offered a bargain rate with 9% interest, a 9 month free period, and a 9 month repayment time. The farmer we visited had taken a loan to purchase chickens, to develop an irrigation system for banana production, and to receive training on production of organic bananas and how to grow "fair trade" fruit acceptable for the world market. He was also able to sell eggs locally, and to grow and sell baby chicks. The interest on the loan will be available to provide loans to others... And this is the form of passing on the gift to others.

We learned a great deal about the processing of bananas prior to foreign export. Unless the fruits in a certain level of unripeness... The fruit is not suitable for shipping. Once ripening has begun the fruit would be over ripe upon delivery to the U. S. or to Europe. Sample bananas from each bunch are examined to assess suitability. If free of flaws, the large stalk of bananas is cut into small groups of fruit, washed, dried, and packed into Inspection continues at points along the shipping sequence and inferior fruit will be rejected.

Cacao farming in the location is not yet highly developed. The Large pods grow from the trunk of the small trees. When they become red in color, the fruit is ripe and the seeds can be harvested. The large seeds are removed and spread on an open air cement surface to dry. This process requires constant stirring. Once dry the seeds can be slowly roasted to prepare the raw material for the making of chocolate. The women in this village are developing a cottage industry of making chocolate candy with a wonderful intense chocolate flavor. In addition they are developing a line of banana and various fruits slow cooked to make a product akin to apple butter... The favors are wonderful and quite unique.

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Artisanal fishermen

Artisanal fishermen must go out in their boats every day to catch fish which they sell to "intermediaries" (middle men) and must accept what ever price is offered.There are 5000 families dependent on this type of fishing in the coastal town we visited today. Heifer project is assisting the fishermen to form co-ops that permit the fishermen to combine their daily catches and to be in a better bargaining position when they sell.
The coop group shares a pier surrounded by the homes of the fishermen. We divided into small groups of 3-5 and each group went out today with a fisherman. One member of each group could translate for the others, the boats are open fiberglas boats about 4-5 meters in length, and about 1.5 m wide. They are powered by an outboard motor. The fisherman has one helper, and once we reach the fishing location he lets out 1000 meters of fishing net. The net appears to be about 2 meters wide. After a 15 minute wait -we travel back to the start of the net and pull it in, removing fish as they go. On a good day they can expect to catch 500 pounds. Today it was misty, and fish tend to be inactive on rainy days. The work is very hard, and the fish piled up more slowly today.
There are many problems with fishing in this manner. Large commercial fishing boats come into a harbor and remove a huge volume of fish all at once. The official fishermen's association is powerless in dealing with the law breakers because of kickbacks and bribes. Some fisherman become so indebted to the "intermediaries" that they dare not join the coop for fear of having their debt called in. Still and all the best chance to develop a voice is through working together through the co op. Frequently women are involved in leadership roles in the coops. Women also hunt for and sell conchs that they finds the mangroves that grow beside the sea. Both conch meat and the shells are sold through the coop.
In addition uncontrolled fishing, especially by commercial boats, is damaging the sustainability of fishing In this area. The government Has established laws, but the "big boats" pay the fines and continue their practices.  The fishermen we spoke to felt a strong need for policies to protect undersize fish that commercial boats simply destroy.  Commercial fisherman are required to stay outside an 8 mile limit...and this to is disregarded.

The treat of the day came at lunch when we pulled to the shore and the fisherman set up a charcoal burner and lit it. We pealed and cut up green bananas for frying, he cleaned and filleted fish, made a delicious tomato, raw onion, and lime salad...and we cooked and ate the freshest most wonderful fish dinner that you can imagine!
When we returned to shore the fishermen's wives had prepared an incredible fish stew with tropical root vegetables. We each got a large bowl - so tasty!
The families we saw today are rich in relationships with family and friends...They work hard...and are subject to the whims of the market and the middlemen who control prices...but thanks to Heifer they have a new voice through their co op organizations,

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Heifer Project I

When you think of Heifer Project you may think of the catalogue you get in the mail every Christmas...it's your opportunity to donate pigs, heifer cows, chickens and ducks to help change the lives of poor farmers worldwide. For the rest of this week we will be visiting Heifer project sites to learn first hand by observing projects supported by Heifer. For over 65 years the focus of the work by Heifer project has been to improve food security for hungry families. In addition having animals generates disposable income that can support education and medical care of family members. Some families generate income to improve their homes with a waterproof roof or a cement floor.

Heifer continues to support these goals that have benefitted so many...but in addition Heifer has grown in its awareness of other community wide needs that need to be addressed. It is as though Heifer continues to mature and seek to provide better support to groups seeking to have a better life as the economic systems of the world become ever more complex.

Development of co-operative marketing systems empower local farmers, fisherman, and herdsmen to speak with a stronger economic voice and to receive a more just profit from their work. Often the awareness of new systems is already in place...and all that is needed is guidance and support to make the new system a reality.

There is a wide gap in Ecuador between the 5% upper financial class and the large group living in poverty. (The urban rich have 177x more income that the 80% of the population that falls into the rural poor group. There are also differences in availability of benefits to the poor in urban and rural settings. . There are some government programs designed to help everyone - for example bottled propane gas is available to all at a highly subsidized price. The price of gasoline is subsidized at a bargain price. But the root causes of poverty has not been resolved.

Ecuador has within its borders vast oil riches and minerals...unfortunately these riches are often below rain forest. The rain forest benefits all mankind as a gas exchange mechanism, but no countries are coming forward to buy the forest at a rate equal to the wealth underground. The current government has the attitude that as long as one child must live in poverty or go without education or food,the priority is to sell the oil and minerals ...and forget the rainforest..this is one of the great conundrums facing Ecuador. They overlook that the rainforest is a non renewable resource ...and once gone from the planet...it is gone...

The current government had a 90 % approval rating in the last election...so they are in a position to develop policies as they see most benefiting the people.

There is also a conflict of interests between family farms and the displacement of camposinos that occurs when large "factory farms" are created.

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Independence Day in Quito

The 10th of August is a big deal in Ecuador! It marks the first attempt by the Peruvian people to establish a free and independent nation (1810) from Spain. Sadly the first attempt failed.

This afternoon and evening the streets were packed with strolling pedestrians, a sound stage with amplified sound (the sound overs at least a 3 block radius) had been constructed in most plazas. The street-food salespeople are offering a myriad of choices, but ice cream is the clear favorite. There is a real carnival atmosphere this evening. Later tonight we can expect competing fireworks exhibitions from various locations in the city. We are curious about the large police presence in the streets. Early this morning we sat in a plaza listening to a patriotic concert when a large contingency of young communists entered the plaza carrying red flags with sickle and hammer. They placed 2 large floral wreaths beside a commemorative statue and did what they could to interrupt the music...then they left to take their message elsewhere.So apparently there are some political issues under the surface. Most were very young and appeared to be more interested in causing a commotion than by real political interests. There are however strong reactions to foreign imperialists who seek to take their countries weath (forest products,oil, and minerals).

Judy and I have a rule when we visit a new city. We need at least 3 days to develop a sense of the city. It takes that long to build an internal map of the place in my brain, to figure out the tram system, and to feel comfortable with the money system.

Quito is a large city ...and we have only seen a fraction. But the people that we encounter are friendly and eager to help. If I ask strangers for directions they go out of the way to give us what we need Some are curious to know where we are from and how we like Ecuador. My Spanish is far from fluent -but I am pleased that I can generally communicate what I intend to say...and sometimes my grammar is correct!

Like the cities of Eastern Europe here we often find large rather plain looking wooden doors that open to the street... But inside we discover a fine patio with access to a collection of shops, offices, and residences... All using the same entrance to the street. It makes exploring the city full of surprises as we fall into unexpected locations... People here seem to value education as a way to improve their lives and the lives of their kids. Overall, the standard of living for most people here is quite good. We also notice that prices are often on par with US prices. Economists would call this a developing nation, not a third world nation.

 

 

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San cristoble

Thursday 8.8

We began our nighttime run to San Cristoble about midnight... The seas were quieter than 2 nights ago. It is wonderful to wake up in the morning and find a new island stretched out for us to explore. Breakfast at 7AM... Then into landing parties to go ashore... This must be was early sea farers called a desert island... At least during the low summer dry spell. Here we were greeted by dozens...by hundreds of sea iguanas.... They are the exact color of the fresh black basalt rock... They eat a diet of sea lettuce which grows freely on the intertidal rocks. They lie inactive much of the time but are capable of rapid motion both on land and sea. We walked an hour or so until we were at the far windward end of the island. Here we found many Albatross birds and nesting colonies with young fluffy white young waiting for their daily diet of regurgitated fish. Several of the couples were engaged in court ship dances... These can continue for an hour... Finally out at the tip end of land we encountered a blowhole that trapped incoming waves and forced the sea water upward with great force.. creating a great plume of sea water high into the air.

Lunch... Siesta... Then back to the landing skiffs. Wide white coral sand beaches... Outcropping masses of black basalt rock. But we were not alone today...our friends the sea lions were their usual garrulous noisy selves. Making rude sounds, bickering, and complaining... Threatening and affectionate ..all In turns. This serf zone is also a favorite for sea turtles! Standing in one location it was possible to observe several dozen of them cavorting out beyond the zone of breaking waves. The typical size of the turtles was over 18 inches. I am not certain but I think they also eat sea algae...

tonight was great fun with dishes sliding back and forth..Then we discovered a new table activity... The water in the glasses remained nearly lever while the boat rocked many degrees back and forth. For us the table tit looked like it was the water moving.

Europeans ...they came for water from a spring and to gather turtles and iguanas for fresh meat. We came pick up a massive turtle digging in the sand prior to laying eggs. The odds of a sea turtle egg surviving the frigate birds is about 1:1000.

Now we sail on to Santa Cruz Island.

... Siesta... Then back to the landing skiffs. Wide white coral sand beaches... Outcropping masses of black basalt rock. But we were not alone today...our friends the sea lions were their usual garrulous noisy selves. Making rude sounds, bickering, and complaining... Threatening and affectionate ..all In turns. This surf zone is also a favorite for sea turtles! Standing in one location it was possible to observe several dozen of them cavorting out beyond the zone of breaking waves. The typical size of the turtle.

 

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Darwin's animals!

Darwin's animals, white sand and black lava

There is something grand and terrible about a night aboard a boat while undergoing gale wind and wave conditions... The trick is not to fight the motion... but to go along with it and relax.. The wild gyrations took us up and down. side to side, and back and forth. All I can say is, "thank goodness" for the "behind the ear" chemical patch. We woke this morning anchored in a quiet bay overlooking the high stone cliffs of San Cristobal.

Life aboard the boat takes on a daily rhythm. The islands are so varied in geology, climate conditions, and life forms; that it is necessary to travel quite a lot to get a real sense of what is here.

Even in the Galapagos human activity is changing the ecosystem. Land iguanas live by eating cactus alone. The number of iguanas is controlled by large hawks. The ranchers who keep livestock on some of the islands shoot hawks on sight to protect their animals (Not effective... ), with reduced hawks, iguana population increases, and the number of cactus plants each year is being reduced... One island we visited yesterday had virtually no new cactus plants because they were being eaten by the iguanas. Our naturalist guide told us that the cactus and land iguanas may well both become extinct from some islands with in a few decades.

It's curious to me that there are relatively few species of plant and animal life In the Galapagos..Great effort has been made to eliminate all introduced species, that would take valuable resources from the naturally occurring species.

Tuesday morning ...we were in the boats ready for a landing by 7:45AM ..it was a beach with the whitest coral sand and the blackest lava flows imaginable...one species of crab, one type of finches, the salt water iguanas...they were all exactly the black color of the lava. It was great location both to hike and to snorkel. Once more we shared the beach with sea lions,finches,sea iguanas, and various other birds.

 

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Rough crossing, fish, volcanos!

Monday 8.2

We traveled through the night crossing through rough seas to reach our quiet harbor at Bartolome Island. The seasick patch behind the ear worked well to prevent problems...some of our group were not so fortunate. One of my surprises here is to gain an understanding of the vast distances between islands,

We made a dry landing ashore and climbed to the top of the highest mountain... Several lava flows can be seen from the peak.. The age of each flow is evident from the many levels of oxidation... The most recent are deep and shiny black.. Older forms ranged from brown to a weathered grey. The "recent" volcanic origin of the islands makes this a perfect natural laboratory to observe natural selection at work. South American plants and animals have occasionally drifted on log masses or have been carried by fierce winds.. The first organisms found a hostile environment... Volcanic rock and little rain. Over time some simple organisms were able to get a foothold . The surviving offspring of these organisms passed on the traits that most supported survival, and in turn these traits were tested and modified, with the survivors in each generation passing on successful traits to all later generations. The organisms that evolved are unlike any found anywhere on earth... But they are perfectly adapted for life here. An example are the famous Galapagos finches, so finely adapted that different varieties are found on each island!.. Each variety suited to local conditions, and food on that island

Afternoon... A choice...Another "snorkel activity" this time with large sea tack on the boat for lunch -I took one look and said no way Good nap and I was ready to go again.urtles or a walk along the fresh lava sea front... This is a favorite haunt for sea going iguanas, seals, sea coast foraging birds, crabs, small lizards, and an occasional sea turtle. All so tame that you approach them within a few feet. Our group found a nest of sea turtles with 2 baby turtles emerging as we watched. It is hard work to dig out of the sand when you are 3 inches long...as we watched, 2 of them made it to the sea. Sorry to say, patrolling Frigate birds made a good meal this day.

3 pm... We start a day-light trip to our next island. The sea is quite smooth. We were on the look out, but saw nothing of special interest.

A word about our ship mates...our group is speaking 4 languages. We include an Italian family with 3 children, a German couple with 2 teen age kids, a couple of Americans, the Ecuadorian crew, and Judy and I. The children and teen agers all a pleasant addition to our group.

We live in close proximity; it is a very agreeable group.

Monday morning...we spent the night in a quiet cove ...gentle rocking lulled us into long and deep sleep.

Early morning .. A dory ride ashore and we hiked for 90 minutes or so...through the midst of an immense colony of sea lions...some of them were of enormous size ! Here we also found land iguanas well suited to a diet of cactus fruit and cactus"pads". They patiently wait...sometime for many days for food to fall to them.

The north end of the island has steep faced cliffs that drop suddenly to the sea...Constantly crashing waves from the north provide the energy needed for such massive erosion.

Siestas are a very civilized thing to add to cultural life. After a busy morning we have an hour to drop off to sleep and recharge our batteries. Later we were off snorkeling in a location with many playful sea lions... They seemed drawn to us by curiosity and a playful nature. Also several sea turtles were sighted. I had trouble with water collecting in my face mask, and with the large swim fins. It was a real challenge to deal with the situation. ..fortunately the support boat was close at hand...and came to my assistance.And finally today we made a wet beach landing in the midst of a crowd of noisy sea lions ...totally fearless of us! Their cries remind me of the noisy bleating of sheep. This large group were all part of one haram, with one Alpha Male. His life is difficult due the constant threats and fights from challengers. We then walked through a forest of tree cactus looking for land iguanas, snakes, finches and hawks... We were not disappointed . Now another night journey through moderately high waves. New ear patch in place.

 

 

 

 

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Untitled

Sunday ... Bartolome

Off on another trek with a wet landing... To a location rich in seals, a nesting colony for Boobies and Frigate Birds... Also night herons, 2 varieties Sea gulls-black Lava Gulls and black and white Swallow Gulls.

Good nap! Off on another trek with a wet landing... In a location rich in seals, a nesting colony for Boobies and Frigate Birds... Also night herons, 2 varieties Sea gulls-black Lava Gulls and black and white Swallow Gulls. Today is Judy's birthday and it has been a very satisfying day! For dessert tonight a large "tres leches" cake was served with one candle for Judy to share.

We traveled half the night through rough seas to reach our quiet harbor at Bartolome Island. The seasick patch behind the ear works well to prevent problems.

Dry landing ashore and a climb to the top of the highest mountain... Several lava flows can be seen from the peak.. evident from the many levels of oxidation... The most recent deep and shiny black.. Through brown to a weathered grey. The "recent" volcanic origin of the islands make them a perfect natural laboratory for natural selection to occur.... Plants and animals have occasionally drifted on log masses or carried by fierce winds.. the first organisms found an unwelcoming environment... Volcanic rock and little rain. Over time some organisms were able to survive... Those offspring with the traits that most supported survival were passed on to the survivors... After many generations organisms evolved unlike any found else where on earth... But they are perfectly adapted for life here. The famous Galapagos finches are so perfectly adapted that different varieties are found on each island?.. Each suited to local conditions on that island.

Afternoon... Another snorkel with large sea turtles or a walk along the fresh lava sea front... A favorite haunt for small water iguanas, seals, sea coast foraging birds, crabs, small lizards, and an occasional sea turtle.

3pm... We start a day light trip to our next island.

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First impressions

First Impressions of the Galapagos

 

This morning I am thinking of the sounds of the rain forest, the river canoes, and hiking the forest trails... This while standing in a line in the Quito airport that was one of the slowest we have ever experienced. We shared the line with a group of Ecuadorian 5th graders off on a science camp excursion... Ah well, we arrived with enough time and we successfully jumped through all the hoops and now we are now flying west to the Galapagos...

It's now 5: 30 pm... First impressions... Flat black volcanic islands (no more than 30000 years old )... Scrub growth and cactus, adapted for long dry summers and rainy winters. The true character of the place began to emerge at once... We made contact with our boat, the Fragata. Judy saw the first iguana, then 2 seals, then a parade of birds presented themselves. Our first excursion was to take small boats and go ashore on Santa Cruz Island... Here we encountered a parade of organisms... First ghost crabs, who use mucous lined holes in the sand to hide, and Sally light foot crabs -(brilliant red in color), pink flamingos, and the national Geographic moment of the day was to see several hundreds of Blue Footed Boobies bombing together into a school of fish...and of course the famous black sea going iguanas. We snorkeled from a beach and saw many fish.

In the night we travelled to a different island - Genovese. The night time travel travelled through some moderately rough water...Judy and I slept the night being rocked to and fro. We both woke with moderately able stomachs, quite happy to drink coffee and eat breakfast...our motto is - "when in doubt - eat" We went ashore and climbed a rugged pathway to reach the level of the plateau. Here we discovered a land occupied by large nesting Boobies... Curiously absolutely fearless of humans. Red footed Boobies, short eared Owl roost in the trees and Narco Boobies with black or green feet are found on the ground. Also we found flying and nesting Frigate birds. The famous "Darwin's finches"...3 varieties ... That played such a major role in the development of understanding the process of evolution as first understood. The hit of the day was to make two sightings of rare Short Eared owls... Who have adapted to day time feeding on the plentiful Stormy Petrels that sweep through the air like a flock of swallows. One of the most exotic birds is the Red Billed Tropic bird - a Large white bird with 2 long white feathers... Flying out behind the bird.

Thinking that our morning morning was about enough excitement for one day I was delighted to snorkel again along an undersea rock wall... With our gear on we fell backwards out of the small skiff, and drifted along close to the rocks... Unbelievable! I floated above a large school of brightly colored tropical fish - big fish... As they drifted -so did I! So many surprises -such a large density both of numbers of fish and varieties of fish. Below the water fell to a great green depth. The fish I swam with we're fearless and quite happy to share their space with me. Back on the boat for lunch -I took one look and suddenly said "No way"... So I attached a seasick patch behind my ear and waited a few minutes... Miracle!

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Quito

Quito, at 9300 ft, is surrounded by high volcanic mountains. The city, built on many hills, it long and narrow. Ecuador is an example of a developing nation. It is old, very old, dating back to the days of the Inca. There are fine examples of the best in gothic style churches, every style since, and a style that we are beginning to recognize as purely Ecuadorian. In the "old city" the streets are narrow and lined with well maintained, often colorful, homes. It Is worthy of its designation as a world heritage site. If we had just come from Mexico we would remark on his clean and prosperous it is. People coming from wealthy first world countries find it less so. It is a city of contrasts. We find the streets well maintained, with no trash. We are amazed to find many high end shops and restaurants... Even great huge shopping centers with the latest and best of everything. We also see evidence of deeply engrained poverty.... Both in the cities and in farm villages. It is a country attempting to grow. We suspect that the most wealthy are involved in tourism, lumber (from the rain forest), mining and oil, and perhaps some in the cocaine trade. A variety of foreign countries are interested in oil, mineral, and forest product rights, and offer easy loans in exchange... Tempting ...but they are giving away the wealth of the country for personal gain. Another landmark trait of this country is many cars, very cheap gasoline, smoggy air that tends to collect in the day and blow away in the night.

Adventures come in different flavors! Judy had found word in a guidebook about a nearby village with a cottage industry of molded colorful small figures... and we were hopeful of finding the place. We asked for advice in our hotel, and early in the morning we left our hostel and walked over to the nearest tram stop. We found the tram car more than jammed body against body full... But were encouraged to push on in. We did... Taking every precaution against pick pockets... A big problem here. Self appointed angels appear when needed... A woman took us under her wing to point out the correct exit and since she was going to the same place guided us to the correct bus, and exit. The town, we found, was a place where everyday life occurred. There were only a few of the special shop/workshops to be found, but the work they produced was whimsical and excellent.

This is our favorite way to experience a small town... Venturing out to be with the people... To set off across a foreign city, dependent on our language skills and a map, and hoping for the appearance of an angel! We returned looking like loaded llamas! Also along the way home we visited some of the grandest churches we have seen anywhere.

Today is a day of preparing for our next step... We will fly tomorrow for the Galapagos... We must store some luggage here in the hotel to meet the weight limits on the boat and our willingness to haul a suitcase full of souvenirs.

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Shaman and Pink Dolphins

This morning we traveled down the river that passes near to our lodge ( the Pastasa River) until we joined the "great river" (CapawariRiver) just downstream. In our morning canoe rides we see Toucans, Parrots, once a great cloud of green motion caused by a flock of flying parakeets. After 10 minutes of river travel we reached the village located high on a bluff above the river. After climbing a steep trail to reach the collection of houses... Each house is different to meet the needs of that family. The shaman, an elder of the village, welcomed us into his open air home. He was probably over 70 years old with a deeply lined face. He wore a red, yellow, and black headband made of feathers. A variety of medallions and beads hung around his neck. He wore no shoes. His eyes suggested that had gone many times into the land of hallucinations with his forest drugs. After the formal exchange of greeting, we each told him a bit about ourselves. He listened carefully, sometimes asking a question. Then he asked if we had questions for him. I asked him about the work of a shaman in the village. He answered that he was a doctor for the people, using plants that he found in the forest. His people believe in a spirit found in all parts of the forest -Aruemtum. If bad spirits had entered a person and he or she becomes sick... He could dispel those spirits with a cleansing ceremony. He takes a hallucinogen to see the patients bad spirits... And then he removes them. Sometimes the patient must also take the hallucinogens. He can interpret dreams. Every male must go alone into the forest after taking the hallucinogen for the experience of self knowledge. The process is guided and interpreted by the Shamen. This first happens at the age of 8... but can be repeated throughout life when needed. He said that when a European or North American has the drug they also see visions of the jungle and jungle animals. He is paid for his services in local produce, chickens, or silver money. In case you are wondering we did not avail ourselves of his services.

Coming here has opened my eyes to a number of realities about the fain forest. The government of Ecuador, and to a large measure the people,are attracted to the money that can be gained from oil development. The money from the oil development comes largely from China ...who is eager to gain oil and mineral rights...never mind the great damage it would do to fragile animal populations, ecosystems, and to the lives of indigenous people. There are also those eager to cut and burn the rain forest to create farming land - despite the well known fact that due to the fact that these are tropical latericic soils which quickly within a few years become depleted and useless for raising crops. Also in areas where many humans are found the animal populations have been seriously depleted. The Eco tourism industry in a promising alternative to the destruction of the environment. People of the world are drawn to experiencing this natural environment, it's plants, and animal life. This provides steady income for the government and for the people of the forest... And best, its totally renewable.

Through natural selection many ocean animals have over thousands of generations adapted to the fresh water of the Amazon River basin. One example is the famous pink river dolphin... Hunting by humans has caused them to be quite secretive... But we had a brief sighting yesterday... And several times we have them surface... But at a distance.

I suppose that the best way to leave a place is wishing for more... But the rain forest has become a new favorite.

P. S. Our final activity in the rain forest was to be taken by motor canoe way up stream and then given two person kayaks to return to kapawi. So beautiful to drift along a small jungle river... Out only task was to keep the kayak pointed downstream. Suddenly we notice a rapidly moving cloud and a brief intense wind... Then we were hit by a tropical downpour... By now we were veterans... The rain was warm, the scene was incredibly beautiful... So we quickly put on our ponchos and continued our trek...

 

Then it was time to fly out... At the airstrip it began to rain again... So we were delayed... Our plane threw mud and water into the arias we took off. The pilot wanted to give us a special thrill and so he flew his old Cessna 6 passenger plane just as close to the river surface as possible... It was pretty cool especially when he banked and turned...

 

Que lastima! Once back in Shell Ecuador, we took a small bus for 4 hours and we are now back in Quito. Time to regroup, then off to the Galapagos...

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Luminescent butterflies and Achuar beer

Simon leads the way with a sharp machete to open the trail for us. He is our local Achuar guide, who speaks Spanish and Achuar. Carlos is our translator and naturalist who explains what we are encountering. They are both knowledgable and very likable. After them, our group of six proceeds. At least once a day we go for a 3 hr (or so) walk in the jungle. It's never possible to predict what we will find.... Sometimes it's fungi and birds... We have seen mammals, fascinating insects, birds, unusual amphibians, giant luminous butterflies, and always amazing plants... Every day is a day of surprises and a wonderful sense of adventure. The trail is often muddy, sometimes with deep mud or standing water. (It is after all a rain forest)... And when it is raining we go anyway with our rain gear. My two greatest surprises have been... There have been no clouds of mosquitos and the temperatures have been mostly very comfortable.

We have just returned from a an indigenous village visit, where we were received as guests. The house was open to the open air with a 6 ft. of open exposure on all sides of the house... It was built in an oval shape... About 10 yards across and about 20 yards long. There was a high thatched roof, timbers forming a strong internal scaffold. The roof was covered with a tight palm thatch. The floor of this space was earth in which chickens scratched and dogs were free to wander.The man and his wife lived here with 3 sons and a daughter.. Upon entering tradition required that we offer our thanks to the host (phonetically saying "we WAH he") almost immediately we were treated to a bowl of "CHE cha" maniac beer (the process of making it requires partial mastication before starting the fermentation) It is considered impolite not to accept -we did and responded with a polite thank you(MAK a tah), when we were served. The wife offered me one small bowl of the beverage and then she filled my bowl again when she saw that it was empty. The entire exchange was quite formal followings a certain sequence. These people are completely self sufficient, growing their food or collecting it from the forest and river. Medicines when needed also come from the forest. Their challenge is to maintain their traditional life in the face of "the outside world" encroaching on them. They made a little extra money by making pottery or sale. When we left our new friends we gave the ritual goodbye (whe AHRE hi). It was a jolly exchange.

Our life here is very pleasant with a wake up call at six, quick cup of coffee then off on a canoe expedition- morning is often the best time to spot birds, monkeys, and other critters... Back for breakfast... Then off on an often strenuous trek through the jungle, excellent late lunch (often with local foods). Time for a two hour siesta, then another activity, dinners... and usually a night time adventure. The rain forest is so addictive... We are afraid to miss any of it because we never know when something fascinating will be spotted. There is always something new to encounter. The peace that I feel in the forest is incredible! This is not a luxury resort where you come to relax, but it is a place to discover great truth about the world and about yourself.

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Entering the rain forest

It's true what they say about the tropical night. Here at the equator the sun sets at 6pm (every day of the year),... And within 30 minutes it is full dark. We slept last night in our little casita that lies between a river tributary of the Amazon River and the rain forest. The music we went to sleep by was an orchestra of frogs, night birds and insects...the sweet musty smell of the rain forest enters our screened-in window. But I need to go back and start at the beginning.

Monday morning after traveling across Ecuador from the coastal lands through the mountains to the edge of the eastern region, We reached the edge of the rainforest. Here we found an airstrip with 3 small planes. Our 5 passenger plane loaded and took us on one of the greatest adventures of our lives! We flew for over an hour over the amazing unbroken rainforest... Looking down from above it was a study in biodiversity and plant dispersal. Judy and we like two happy kids writing notes to each other about what we were seeing. The roar of the engines made it impossible to speak. This rainforest has been called the "lungs of the planet" Earth, because of the enormous importance of this great forest in absorbing carbon dioxide and releasing oxygen. We flew at 4000 ft until encountered clouds, then dropped to 2000 ft, which put us right above the forest. We landed on a dirt strip that had been cleared in the jungle Our welcoming committee was a group of indigenous kids that stood watching alongside the track. A more official group of local village folks from the eco-center led us to the lodge. I can't think of another time in my life when I have had a greater sense of awe and amazement than this first trek through the rainforest 'jungle'. The sounds are amazing... Birds, insects, frogs, unknown bleeps and peeps... The air is warm but pleasant. The smell of the air is that of blossoms, growth and decay coming from the forest. We have been happily surprised to encounter few mosquitos. We will live for a week in a simple "house" made of local materials built using local methods of construction..no nails are used. Inside we discovered comfortable amenities and our neighbors are "muy simpatico" our house is built on pilings that extend over a pond, an offshoot of the nearby river. There are great noisy frogs that Sing their varied songs throughout the night...One giant lives under our house! Judy and I are like two small children as we discover one amazing thing after another. To walk through the jungle is to experience a new and wonderful world.. Everything...plants, mammals, insects, birds, fungus...everything is in constant competition for living space and light, competition for getting nutrition and defenses so that they may survive. Everywhere we turn we are amazed and delighted by new and curious (to us ) forms of life. To stand alone in the jungle and be truly there is a humbling and spiritual experience. We feel a great peace in this place.

This Eco-lodge was developed to make it possible for more people to experience the great rain forest of Ecuador. It also serves as an opportunity for training indigenous people into how to provide eco-tourism which improves the life of the local people by providing employment for many without disruption of traditional life.

When the life on our planet was destroyed under the ice of past ice-ages, this region continued to thrive and evolve from ages past. The products of the rain forest are of immensely greater value than the short time profits that would go to a few if the rain forests were cut or minerals in the ground extracted. If the forest were destroyed the great genetic wealth found in the organisms of this place would be lost.

The developers of this place have turned over full management to the local indigenous people. And they are well trained and doing a fine job. This is not a luxury resort where one comes to relax... Days are filled with strenuous hikes through the remain forest, visits to indigenous villages, wildlife viewing from

"dugout" canoes, an leisurely kayak treks down small rivers Meals are gourmet if sometimes made from unfamiliar foods... They are always delicious. We feel a bit like this is summer camp for adults.

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John & Judy ...Ecuador Journal #1

Check lists completed ... house sitters in place...'mimimal' packs loaded...And we are ready to 'fly the coop'. We took the Red eye' from San Francisco to Lima. Considering that we got four hours of sleep during the flight we are doing quite well! Our first sight of South America was a flaming sunrise from 35000 ft., "as the sun slowly rose in majesty over the Andes". We have a new favorite airline... LAN is a Chilean company that provides a high level of comfort and service. In this day and age of uncertain airline food, we were served real food, well prepared. Airports are never a good place to learn about a country...certainly true of Lima... Our guide book suggests that Lima is where you go to do business, but not a good place to experience Peru. Later in our trip we return to Peru and Lima is somewhat ini the middle of our travels...a good place to start and end. On this particular day, Lima weather was identical to the summer overcast found in San Francisco. Same cold dampness. So after a three hour layover, we are once more airborne...Headed more or less north.This time our destination is Quito Ecuador which is closer to our first real destination. The geology that I see from the air is impressive... We see vast fields of lava,apparently quite recent.

Arrival in Quito...first impressions...We are staying in the traditional part of town ...it is listed as a world heritage site by UNESCO ...Many of the buildings are built of gray volcanic stone and streets are narrow in the early neighborhood of the cathedral, We are staying in the Secret Garden Hostel... The place reminds me of my travels during early 20s when I explored Europe, sleeping in youth hostels. Most of the fellow guests are under 30 in age and off on great adventures. Each evening the visitors gather in the rooftop patio (with a grand view of the entire city) We sit and share stories of our daily adventures and share useful travel information...It is a time to relax, enjoy a beer, and watch the evening shadows come on... The hostel provides a fixed price meal each night... Good basic food... Delicious... And much easier than trekking off to another restaurant.

Saturday was our first real day and we joined a small group to ride out in a van to a livestock sale in a neighboring town. Here the descendants of the Mayan indigenous people come to buy and sell their animals. Here were pigs, chickens, goats, guinea pigs, cows... Them and the local people coming together to share the events of their lives, to see friends, and sell their animals...It is a grand confusion of noise and people. Close by is the greatest once a week special market for all products ...both for the needs of the locals and products to lure the tourists.

Now Sunday morning we are attempting to meet the 25 pound limit for out trip into the rainforest... Our other luggage can be stored here until we return Ina week. We hear rumors that there may be some sort of satellite internet. We will see,,,

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