Rx for too much civilization

When we feel a need to reconnect with nature our favorite place to visit is Yosemite Valley.  May is the ideal time.  The valley isn’t yet crowded with summer visitors, the meadows are green, the falls are magnificent, and the dog wood trees are at their peak.  We could only get away for 3 nights this time– but it was great!

Half dome from the Sentinel Dome Loop trail

It has been a busy spring for both of us – and before we plow into summer plans this was the time for a mid week get away.  From Fremont , we drove 4 hours... but we are off the freeway after two...We traveled through the orchards and vineyards on the San Joaquin... to emerge into the dry grasslands of the foothills and beyond into Oak Savanna and scrub chaparrals, then the progression of conifers... each zone dictated by sunlight, temperature, and water...

A cluster of dog wood blossoms

 Yosemite  valley is about 4000 feet.  This is the incredible place of sculpted granite walls carved by glacial ice. It is a land of falling water, meadows, oak and pine forests... There is a continual struggle between keeping the valley wild, permitting a real nature experience for visitors,  and development to provide a wider range of accommodations .  I dont even like to visit the Valley in July and August – it becomes absolutely urban.  

Two squabbling Ravens in the early morning

Yet people love to come here to camp and connect with granite cliffs, trees, falling water, and wildlife.  But for each campfire permitted the air of the valley becomes more hazy, for each amenity provided, the valley becomes less natural.

Housekeeping tent cabins

In recent years there has been a strong effort to reduce services, limit camping, limit traffic flow, designate certain areas off limits to human foot traffic to maintain the natural world... You can’t have both unlimited development and a natural Yosemite... I clearly support the new limits even though it means that it is more difficult for us to visit,,,

Bottom part of Yosemite falls from the trail between Taft Pt. and Sentinel Dome

We had never stayed in the housekeeping tent cabins before – while we prefer tent camping, for a quick get away this was "OK".  Our tent cabin would accommodate 4 people with thick foam mattresses, an open air kitchen area, fenced in privacy, a firepit, and a table...  Being enclosed within a small fenced enclosure felt constraining to me.   However, from our kitchen area we had a direct view of Yosemite falls! 

Reflection of Glacier Point in the Merced River - 

Monday we arrived about 2 PM and after settling in – had time for a good walk on the Valley floor along the river ... being in a valley with high walls the sun sets early and people go to sleep early! 

Tuesday we travelled up to Tuolumne Meadows ( almost 10,000 ft. ) , our favorite summertime location.  Now we found it to be just emerging from winter.  Deep piles of snow remained wherever there was no direct sunlight.  Streamside willows were not even thinking about leafing out yet...  But we did see one old marmot had come out of hibernation. Deer were taking advantage of the first grass in the meadows. ( but they were sadly skinny from the lean days of winter).   

Tuolomnie Meadows near Tioga Pass - May 2013

There was a fierce cold wind blowing at Tioga Pass and we dropped down to the lower Tioga Lake on the East side of the pass.    Here we were out of the wind – but we had to choose our path carefully to avoid the deep snow... We made out way cross-country around the lake and selected a sunny spot when we could advance no farther and here we shared our picnic lunch with a fine view of lake and snowy mountains.  In the sun it was nicely warm!  Judy read and I climbed higher rocky outcroppings.  I love rambling and making my way among the rocks – and this time of year it was all so fresh from the winter melt!  We loved it!

Our friend the Marmot

The second day we drove up toward Glacier Point, and parked at the trailhead for Taft point and Sentinel Dome...  We did a 5 mile loop that took us through sparse high elevation forest of Jeffrey pine, manzanita, and chinquapin.  The moisture brought up by the prevailing wind from the valley promoted a thick growth of the bright yellow tree lichen.  

Yellow Green Lichen in the path of upswept moist air from the valley floor

The overlook from Taft point is a “wow” experience.  There seem to be 3 kinds of people in this world, when it comes to looking over a precipice– those that cant make themselves look over the railing, those that really like that kind of stuff, and those with approach-avoidance who go to the railing and look but with white knuckles gripping the rail... When  you look over the railing, it is straight down 4000 feet plus...!

Looking straight down 4000 ft. ( view slightly magnified )

From Taft Point  we walked along the top rim of the valley with occasional breathtaking views until we reached Sentinel Dome – Perhaps you remember this tree as a symbol of perseverance against the tough things in life make us tougher and stronger... Sorry to say this tree finally died of old age and its tough environment... (I grew up in Kansas with a photo of this tree on our wall!)  The view from Sentinel Dome is a 360 degree view from the top of the world!  Looking east, lies the highest and most grand portion of the Sierra Mountains! Another "wow".

Ansel Adams famous photo of the Jeffrey Pine atop Sentinel Dome

What is it about the mountain experience that breaks down barriers?  When we met people on the trail, if we were buying food, if we were admiring a view, or our camping neighbors – everyone talks – everyone shares... I love it!  We met so many traveling Europeans, people from all parts of the US, a few people from Asia... all anxious to talk!  I even found one of my AP Biology students from 10 years ago!

Every morning we made coffee and cooked breakfast with our propane stove, took food for lunch with us when out on the trail, and we ate in the Camp Curry cafeteria in the evening.   Food tasted so good when  you are honestly hungry!

Rare saprophytic plant takes nutrients from the pine tree roots ( with fungus helpers )
"Pine Drops"

 Nights were cold but we were prepared – we slept warm.  No bears invaded our camp. We slept the sleep of the just thanks to our long walking.  We went to sleep with beautiful pictures of nature in our heads.  Plus we were completely away from TV, internet, phones... whoopee!  

We are already planning our next trip!!

How did I get this way...?

I have 2 parents, 4 grandparents, 8 great grandparents, and 16 great great grandparents... The number progression continues: 2, 4, 8, 16, 32, 64, 128, 256, 512, and 1024...  If I go back 10 generations I have 1024 individuals who have contributed, more or less equally, to the collection of genes in my chromosomes.  And that number continues to double with each additional generation I go back...  I clearly am related to a whole lot of people! 

Bohemian and Moravian community Delia Kansas about 1890

One of the most reliable genetic markers for men is to follow the linage of the Y chromosome.  Each of our normal cells has 23 pairs of chromosomes that we inherit from our parents.  One half of our chromosomes are inherited from each parent. But the 23^rd pair is different... Females have two identical chromosomes that are labeled XX.  Men inherit one X from the mother and one that is notably smaller,  labeled Y, inherited from the father.   http://www.livescience.com/27248-chromosomes.html

A small par3t of a DNA molecule model

 The 23^rd pair in men is labeled XY.   So my Y-chromosomes have been copied and passed on from father to son since the earliest generations.   It is possible to follow the lineage of the Y chromosome over time.  Out of my 4 grandparents only my fraternal grandfather supplied the Y chromosome to my father... Out of my 16 great great great grandparents only one supplied the Y to my great great grandfather...

Both the X and Y chromosomes, like other chromosomes,  are made up of  great lengths of coiled DNA strands that carry the individuals genetic code information

Females inherit the DNA of their mitochondria in a similar pattern directly along matriarchal family lines.  My mother’s mitochondrial DNA information was passed to my sister but not to me, since I am not female.   http://simple.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chromosome

While the genetic information we receive is mostly passed accurately from one generation to the next, small errors do occur in the genetic copying process.  These changes are called “mutations”.  Most of them are minor and have no great effect on the characteristics. The mutations are faithfully passed on to all later generations, and serve as markers in tracing our lineage. 

A small number of my Bohemian ancestors

I sent a sample of my DNA (collected on a swab from my mouth) to the Human Genographic Project https://genographic.nationalgeographic.com.
The project now has information from almost 600 individuals in 140 countries. A study of my Y-chromosomes compares 25 basic identified genes that are used to show degree of relatedness.  All the people in a single human group (gene pool) with the fewest number of mutations in these marker genes would represent the oldest original human population.

Early humans migrated vast distances - and in the process formed isolated genetic pools each with their own characteristic mutations

Another group of people have the same pattern but with one common identified genetic mutation – this group must have been later and genetically isolated from the first group, by migration.    Still another group with 2 mutations must have separated still later and been genetically isolated... By study of the world population groups, it is possible to work out the sequence of separation and migration of the various human population groups from the original “least changes” oldest population. 

Undoubtedly some of my early ancestors were stone workers - early forming of stone tools represented the highest level of technology in its time

When I sent in my sample they only had to identify which mutations I have in my Y chromosomes and compare them with the human migration sequence to identify the sequence of migration of the ancestral men in my lineage that passed along the Y chromosome from one generation to the next.

My record shows that all the Zlatnik males descendent from Grandfather Antonin Zlatnik are part of a linage that can be traced back to bronze age Celts in central Europe.  It can also be identified that  before the Celts,  the linage passed through early Cro-Magnon humans (the group famous for cave paintings, and hunting mastodons) .   http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cro-Magnon

Bohemian Celtic sculpture

During the time of the great Ice Ages, they had migrated from Central Asia, and before that, still earlier generations had migrated from the region of present day middle east, even earlier ancestors can be traced back into Africa.  https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Recent_African_origin_of_modern_humans

Earlier ancestors were in many ways identical to modern humans but the development of cultural life evolved slowly

All of this information can be inferred from long study of  current day human populations and the information in my Y-chromosomes!

Every time that the Human Genographic society finds someone with identical marker genes to mine I am notified... and I now have 163 identified matches with 12 marker genes in common, and 1 with 25 marker genes in common.  We are undoubtedly related with a common ancestor.  None of these folks have the same last name – the person with 25 genes in common is of Bohemian origin, like my family, and its frustrating that there is no way to determine our exact relationship.  Still genes can't lie!

Contributors to my gene pool

Notes – May 10, 2013

1.     Walking my dogs in the early morning involves all the senses!  The smell of parched dry oats is so sweet!  In the still air of morning a patch of wild elderberries, in full bloom, gives sweet fragrance as I pass.  When I enter a grove of eucalyptus trees there is that unmistakable pungent odor. My old friend the California Pepper Tree gives me a spicy bouquet when I crush a few leaves!  There is an unmistakeable musty smell when I pass the drying mud of the drying river channel  When  I pass close to a farmhouse – and some mornings I know from the smell that they are having fried bacon for breakfast...  

 Me and two of the dogs

2.     On my route there are also the sounds of morning – far off a freight train is coming through the canyon sounding its horn as it rounds the turns, distant traffic sounds, and sounds of construction. Around me I also hear the calls of mocking birds, crows, scrub jays, seagulls, grebes, sparrows, Canada geese, killdeers, mourning doves, and the quiet little clicks of the humming birds...  

Crow on a fence post!

 I recognize them  all by their calls and sometimes if no one is around I do my best to answer them. Sometimes I have quite lengthy conversations with crows...they call to me – and I call right back.  And then there are clouds of swallows who are mostly silent – but turn and dive – sweeping close to the river water – then swoop high into the sky. 

The crunch of gravel underfoot as we walk, the sounds of distant dogs barking, the commuter jet starting its descent into Oakland airport... these too add to my morning blend of sounds.

 Sea gulls

3.     Each morning walk is a social occasion for both the dogs and me.  Many people are very regular in their walking habits – Some people I have been meeting and talking to for years.  Some I stand and chat with for a few minutes, others I just nod and greet “Good morning”.  One old Sikh gentleman with a white turban I greet with  “Na Muste”.  The dogs have their own system of social greetings.  Some of their cues are indecipherable to me – why are some dogs, when met, immediate best good friends and others are a cause for alarm and severe barking.... I’ll never know...  Of course smelling each other (all over) is an important part of their greeting.

Early morning in Quarry Lakes Park

4.     I love going out early in the morning when the water of the ponds is perfectly still. The reflection of hills and trees and clouds are just as perfect as the real thing.  Some mornings it seems like I could just walk into the reflection, so real is the image.  It is like an alternate universe.  And then a mallard duck  comes flying in and makes wild noisy ripples as it lands in my quiet lake.

My friend the Scrub jay

5.     By this time of year the growing season is pretty well over – the wild oats have gone to seed, many weeds have flowered and are setting seed, California poppies and lupines are finished and now will survive until the next rainy season only through their seeds. Summer dust is forming.  It is the normal way of things – accentuated this year by the low winter rainfall. 

One of the great and wonderful mysteries of nature, for me,  is "the seed":.

Our trail

6.     This time of year our Pacific Ocean current, moving down from Alaska, is a cold 55 degrees.  http://www.currentresults.com/Oceans/Temperature/san-francisco-average-water-temperature.php Enough to turn you blue if you try swimming in it without a wet suit.  Most nights an airmass from the Pacific moves over us cooling the air to low 60s and a low strata if gray clouds predominate.  By 10 AM  the sun breaks through, the clouds burn off, and it warms  to  the mid 70s. 

One of the 5 lakes in our park

7.   The end of another school year with my interns and student teachers is at hand!  I work with both Mills College student teachers, who teach one period a day and work with a Master Teacher;  and Loyola Marymount University interns who are hired to teach 5 periods a day and receive support from people like me, and their seminar leaders.  Colleges and universities end their term in the first week of  May - but the young teachers are expected to complete their school year until mid June.  My student teachers are now applying for a full placement in a school for next year... for them it is an anxious time until their placement is settled.  I value my relationships with the ST's and interns.  It is a privilege to observe their emergence from rank beginners to quite polished new teachers with a good 'bag of tricks' ready for next year.

Mills Hall - Mills College Campus