Note: I didn't have a very good camera at that time - so iI have added photos found on the internet - (I suspect that my camera was damaged at that time) 2 samples of my photos at the end...
It wasn't much to look at –most
of the windows were broken or missing- and it leaned to one side, it had dents and
appeared rusty in spots… but I had found a bus going East. When I was a young pup and off to see the
world – I was traveling mostly by hitchhiking, and when all else failed I found a local
bus. I was now in the ancient city of
Homs, Syria – (This was long before the current conflicts.) It was a fascinating traditional Arab town experience for me! - Stone and mud block buildings, men wearing loose white robes with head
scarves held in place with a thick black cord, no women evident, traffic consisted of some cars, but many carts, horses, and camels. loud Arabic
music played from the tea houses, shops and markets sold all that people needed here. I found Syria and the Syrian people
fascinating! But I wanted to get out
into the desert and to see the ancient city of Palmira.
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| Modern photo of Homs |
Early in the morning, our bus
loaded a dozen or so passengers. The shock absorbers were deficient, and every
loose piece of metal rattled noisily, but we were a jolly group. The driver
turned up the music and off we went. I was
the only non-Arab and people found me a curiosity – During the trip, some offered me candy or
dates or Arab cheese on flat bread. I had water. The
driver plodded along at a very slow speed. It was late fall, and the weather was cool and
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| Ruins of Palmyra |
The desert was flat and rather
featureless – some scrub growth, wet season grass (now dried), but mostly dry
soil and small rocks. Occasionally we passed encampments of Bedouin people – usually 4-6 large black or brown tests –
a few camels, horses, goats, and donkeys. The horses were riding horses and
appeared well cared for. Where the
people got water I don't know. Some
women were working large mortar like structures – I never found out if they
were crushing grain, or making butter, or perhaps something else.
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| Bedouin tent |
Finally, late in the evening
we arrived in Tadmur (Syria) … At that time, it was the small town
that had grown up around a source of water. It was
a true oasis. The major industry was growing dates. It was late and we
were hungry and asked in the small café where we were let off if they had
food – they produced dried cakes of boiled meal that had been fried in sheep
fat and then allowed to cool. Hungry as
I was I ate it but did not enjoy the taste or the texture of the congealed fat. Then I asked it there were any rooms to rent for the night– I got a small room in a mud brick building, with large wooden
beams overhead, and a thick wooden door. They provided a thick woven
wool blanket against the desert cold night.
The next morning, I found the
village bakery and bought fresh hot bread, and from another merchant local
dates, and I drank several small glasses of strong red Syrian tea. In the tea shop I met up with 2 German travelers
my age – and we set off by foot for the ruins of Palmyra.
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| One of the tombs - we saw several like this being studied by the archeologists |
Palmyra was possible because of the oasis - water! - At one time, there were stone age humans here, it was an
important site on the Silk road from Asia, and was first documented in the
early second millennium BC as
a caravan stop for travelers crossing the Syrian Desert. It was known
in Biblical times. Under Alexander the Great and later the Roman Empire it became an
important stop for their trade route and over millennia and developed into an
important Roman city. The existing buildings attest to the different periods and styles of people who have lived here.
My new German friends and I clambered over the various yellowing
brown stone buildings…some were civic buildings, some temples, some pools or
sporting sites, some tombs. It was off
season so no guides were around – so we spent much of the day walking through
the ruins, entering where we could.
There were archeologists examining some of the sites and we found them
willing to talk. We had dates, bread, and
water for the day, so we didn't have to return until to Tadmur until late afternoon we were worn out from the day.
There were few shops and little to buy in Tadmur – but in a market I found
a man selling a hand crafted dagger with a classic curved blade. It was a bit crude and utilitarian…
I think it was made from a piece of car
body spring, formed on a local forge. I bargained and bought it –Now it is one
of my treasures from the Arab world. Its simplicity and hand made qualities make it special. My friend and I walked that evening into
the date tree orchard – amazing what you can grow if you have water.
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| Homemade knife |
You can imagine my alarm and anger when I read about the work of
the present controllers of Palmyra – ISIS – the Muslim extremist group that is
wracking such chaos in the Middle East… we read each week about ancient historical
treasures being totally destroyed – after existing for over 2000 years or more. It is so wanton. It is a crime against humanity past, people today,
and those that will see these monuments only in photographs. No where else can we get so close to the minds
of the long dead civilizations as through their constructions. It is sad for the people of Syria and also for you and me.
In the ISIS interpretation of the Koran – if a human construction
does not support their ideas of Islam it is sacrilegious and worthy of destruction. Temples to alien gods have no value. The Muslims that I know in Fremont are as appalled
by the crass destruction of historical treasures as am I.
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My photo - a street scene in Homs
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