Bananas and Chocolate...Ecuadorian Style

One of the basic premises of Heifer International is that of "passing on the gift". In the case of livestock that is the simple matter of gifting the first offspring of your cow or chickens to someone else so that more can benefit. On this study trip we have seen the concept expanded to include the funding of co-ops and creation of "seed money" to start and expand farming practices to become better adapted for the world markets today.

Wednesday we travelled high into the cloud forest of Ecuador to visit a small town engaged in banana and cacao production. The local farm association met with us to present to us what they had done and their goals.

The farm that we visited was high on a hill, up a steep slippery muddy trail, that led to the family home and banana processing location. There were also a motley group of barking dogs... The farm contained both cacao and bananas inter grown with other... However the primary crop was bananas.

Interest rates, for farm expansion, are very high for farmers... And Heifer offered a bargain rate with 9% interest, a 9 month free period, and a 9 month repayment time. The farmer we visited had taken a loan to purchase chickens, to develop an irrigation system for banana production, and to receive training on production of organic bananas and how to grow "fair trade" fruit acceptable for the world market. He was also able to sell eggs locally, and to grow and sell baby chicks. The interest on the loan will be available to provide loans to others... And this is the form of passing on the gift to others.

We learned a great deal about the processing of bananas prior to foreign export. Unless the fruits in a certain level of unripeness... The fruit is not suitable for shipping. Once ripening has begun the fruit would be over ripe upon delivery to the U. S. or to Europe. Sample bananas from each bunch are examined to assess suitability. If free of flaws, the large stalk of bananas is cut into small groups of fruit, washed, dried, and packed into Inspection continues at points along the shipping sequence and inferior fruit will be rejected.

Cacao farming in the location is not yet highly developed. The Large pods grow from the trunk of the small trees. When they become red in color, the fruit is ripe and the seeds can be harvested. The large seeds are removed and spread on an open air cement surface to dry. This process requires constant stirring. Once dry the seeds can be slowly roasted to prepare the raw material for the making of chocolate. The women in this village are developing a cottage industry of making chocolate candy with a wonderful intense chocolate flavor. In addition they are developing a line of banana and various fruits slow cooked to make a product akin to apple butter... The favors are wonderful and quite unique.

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Artisanal fishermen

Artisanal fishermen must go out in their boats every day to catch fish which they sell to "intermediaries" (middle men) and must accept what ever price is offered.There are 5000 families dependent on this type of fishing in the coastal town we visited today. Heifer project is assisting the fishermen to form co-ops that permit the fishermen to combine their daily catches and to be in a better bargaining position when they sell.
The coop group shares a pier surrounded by the homes of the fishermen. We divided into small groups of 3-5 and each group went out today with a fisherman. One member of each group could translate for the others, the boats are open fiberglas boats about 4-5 meters in length, and about 1.5 m wide. They are powered by an outboard motor. The fisherman has one helper, and once we reach the fishing location he lets out 1000 meters of fishing net. The net appears to be about 2 meters wide. After a 15 minute wait -we travel back to the start of the net and pull it in, removing fish as they go. On a good day they can expect to catch 500 pounds. Today it was misty, and fish tend to be inactive on rainy days. The work is very hard, and the fish piled up more slowly today.
There are many problems with fishing in this manner. Large commercial fishing boats come into a harbor and remove a huge volume of fish all at once. The official fishermen's association is powerless in dealing with the law breakers because of kickbacks and bribes. Some fisherman become so indebted to the "intermediaries" that they dare not join the coop for fear of having their debt called in. Still and all the best chance to develop a voice is through working together through the co op. Frequently women are involved in leadership roles in the coops. Women also hunt for and sell conchs that they finds the mangroves that grow beside the sea. Both conch meat and the shells are sold through the coop.
In addition uncontrolled fishing, especially by commercial boats, is damaging the sustainability of fishing In this area. The government Has established laws, but the "big boats" pay the fines and continue their practices.  The fishermen we spoke to felt a strong need for policies to protect undersize fish that commercial boats simply destroy.  Commercial fisherman are required to stay outside an 8 mile limit...and this to is disregarded.

The treat of the day came at lunch when we pulled to the shore and the fisherman set up a charcoal burner and lit it. We pealed and cut up green bananas for frying, he cleaned and filleted fish, made a delicious tomato, raw onion, and lime salad...and we cooked and ate the freshest most wonderful fish dinner that you can imagine!
When we returned to shore the fishermen's wives had prepared an incredible fish stew with tropical root vegetables. We each got a large bowl - so tasty!
The families we saw today are rich in relationships with family and friends...They work hard...and are subject to the whims of the market and the middlemen who control prices...but thanks to Heifer they have a new voice through their co op organizations,

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Heifer Project I

When you think of Heifer Project you may think of the catalogue you get in the mail every Christmas...it's your opportunity to donate pigs, heifer cows, chickens and ducks to help change the lives of poor farmers worldwide. For the rest of this week we will be visiting Heifer project sites to learn first hand by observing projects supported by Heifer. For over 65 years the focus of the work by Heifer project has been to improve food security for hungry families. In addition having animals generates disposable income that can support education and medical care of family members. Some families generate income to improve their homes with a waterproof roof or a cement floor.

Heifer continues to support these goals that have benefitted so many...but in addition Heifer has grown in its awareness of other community wide needs that need to be addressed. It is as though Heifer continues to mature and seek to provide better support to groups seeking to have a better life as the economic systems of the world become ever more complex.

Development of co-operative marketing systems empower local farmers, fisherman, and herdsmen to speak with a stronger economic voice and to receive a more just profit from their work. Often the awareness of new systems is already in place...and all that is needed is guidance and support to make the new system a reality.

There is a wide gap in Ecuador between the 5% upper financial class and the large group living in poverty. (The urban rich have 177x more income that the 80% of the population that falls into the rural poor group. There are also differences in availability of benefits to the poor in urban and rural settings. . There are some government programs designed to help everyone - for example bottled propane gas is available to all at a highly subsidized price. The price of gasoline is subsidized at a bargain price. But the root causes of poverty has not been resolved.

Ecuador has within its borders vast oil riches and minerals...unfortunately these riches are often below rain forest. The rain forest benefits all mankind as a gas exchange mechanism, but no countries are coming forward to buy the forest at a rate equal to the wealth underground. The current government has the attitude that as long as one child must live in poverty or go without education or food,the priority is to sell the oil and minerals ...and forget the rainforest..this is one of the great conundrums facing Ecuador. They overlook that the rainforest is a non renewable resource ...and once gone from the planet...it is gone...

The current government had a 90 % approval rating in the last election...so they are in a position to develop policies as they see most benefiting the people.

There is also a conflict of interests between family farms and the displacement of camposinos that occurs when large "factory farms" are created.

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Independence Day in Quito

The 10th of August is a big deal in Ecuador! It marks the first attempt by the Peruvian people to establish a free and independent nation (1810) from Spain. Sadly the first attempt failed.

This afternoon and evening the streets were packed with strolling pedestrians, a sound stage with amplified sound (the sound overs at least a 3 block radius) had been constructed in most plazas. The street-food salespeople are offering a myriad of choices, but ice cream is the clear favorite. There is a real carnival atmosphere this evening. Later tonight we can expect competing fireworks exhibitions from various locations in the city. We are curious about the large police presence in the streets. Early this morning we sat in a plaza listening to a patriotic concert when a large contingency of young communists entered the plaza carrying red flags with sickle and hammer. They placed 2 large floral wreaths beside a commemorative statue and did what they could to interrupt the music...then they left to take their message elsewhere.So apparently there are some political issues under the surface. Most were very young and appeared to be more interested in causing a commotion than by real political interests. There are however strong reactions to foreign imperialists who seek to take their countries weath (forest products,oil, and minerals).

Judy and I have a rule when we visit a new city. We need at least 3 days to develop a sense of the city. It takes that long to build an internal map of the place in my brain, to figure out the tram system, and to feel comfortable with the money system.

Quito is a large city ...and we have only seen a fraction. But the people that we encounter are friendly and eager to help. If I ask strangers for directions they go out of the way to give us what we need Some are curious to know where we are from and how we like Ecuador. My Spanish is far from fluent -but I am pleased that I can generally communicate what I intend to say...and sometimes my grammar is correct!

Like the cities of Eastern Europe here we often find large rather plain looking wooden doors that open to the street... But inside we discover a fine patio with access to a collection of shops, offices, and residences... All using the same entrance to the street. It makes exploring the city full of surprises as we fall into unexpected locations... People here seem to value education as a way to improve their lives and the lives of their kids. Overall, the standard of living for most people here is quite good. We also notice that prices are often on par with US prices. Economists would call this a developing nation, not a third world nation.

 

 

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San cristoble

Thursday 8.8

We began our nighttime run to San Cristoble about midnight... The seas were quieter than 2 nights ago. It is wonderful to wake up in the morning and find a new island stretched out for us to explore. Breakfast at 7AM... Then into landing parties to go ashore... This must be was early sea farers called a desert island... At least during the low summer dry spell. Here we were greeted by dozens...by hundreds of sea iguanas.... They are the exact color of the fresh black basalt rock... They eat a diet of sea lettuce which grows freely on the intertidal rocks. They lie inactive much of the time but are capable of rapid motion both on land and sea. We walked an hour or so until we were at the far windward end of the island. Here we found many Albatross birds and nesting colonies with young fluffy white young waiting for their daily diet of regurgitated fish. Several of the couples were engaged in court ship dances... These can continue for an hour... Finally out at the tip end of land we encountered a blowhole that trapped incoming waves and forced the sea water upward with great force.. creating a great plume of sea water high into the air.

Lunch... Siesta... Then back to the landing skiffs. Wide white coral sand beaches... Outcropping masses of black basalt rock. But we were not alone today...our friends the sea lions were their usual garrulous noisy selves. Making rude sounds, bickering, and complaining... Threatening and affectionate ..all In turns. This serf zone is also a favorite for sea turtles! Standing in one location it was possible to observe several dozen of them cavorting out beyond the zone of breaking waves. The typical size of the turtles was over 18 inches. I am not certain but I think they also eat sea algae...

tonight was great fun with dishes sliding back and forth..Then we discovered a new table activity... The water in the glasses remained nearly lever while the boat rocked many degrees back and forth. For us the table tit looked like it was the water moving.

Europeans ...they came for water from a spring and to gather turtles and iguanas for fresh meat. We came pick up a massive turtle digging in the sand prior to laying eggs. The odds of a sea turtle egg surviving the frigate birds is about 1:1000.

Now we sail on to Santa Cruz Island.

... Siesta... Then back to the landing skiffs. Wide white coral sand beaches... Outcropping masses of black basalt rock. But we were not alone today...our friends the sea lions were their usual garrulous noisy selves. Making rude sounds, bickering, and complaining... Threatening and affectionate ..all In turns. This surf zone is also a favorite for sea turtles! Standing in one location it was possible to observe several dozen of them cavorting out beyond the zone of breaking waves. The typical size of the turtle.

 

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Darwin's animals!

Darwin's animals, white sand and black lava

There is something grand and terrible about a night aboard a boat while undergoing gale wind and wave conditions... The trick is not to fight the motion... but to go along with it and relax.. The wild gyrations took us up and down. side to side, and back and forth. All I can say is, "thank goodness" for the "behind the ear" chemical patch. We woke this morning anchored in a quiet bay overlooking the high stone cliffs of San Cristobal.

Life aboard the boat takes on a daily rhythm. The islands are so varied in geology, climate conditions, and life forms; that it is necessary to travel quite a lot to get a real sense of what is here.

Even in the Galapagos human activity is changing the ecosystem. Land iguanas live by eating cactus alone. The number of iguanas is controlled by large hawks. The ranchers who keep livestock on some of the islands shoot hawks on sight to protect their animals (Not effective... ), with reduced hawks, iguana population increases, and the number of cactus plants each year is being reduced... One island we visited yesterday had virtually no new cactus plants because they were being eaten by the iguanas. Our naturalist guide told us that the cactus and land iguanas may well both become extinct from some islands with in a few decades.

It's curious to me that there are relatively few species of plant and animal life In the Galapagos..Great effort has been made to eliminate all introduced species, that would take valuable resources from the naturally occurring species.

Tuesday morning ...we were in the boats ready for a landing by 7:45AM ..it was a beach with the whitest coral sand and the blackest lava flows imaginable...one species of crab, one type of finches, the salt water iguanas...they were all exactly the black color of the lava. It was great location both to hike and to snorkel. Once more we shared the beach with sea lions,finches,sea iguanas, and various other birds.

 

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Rough crossing, fish, volcanos!

Monday 8.2

We traveled through the night crossing through rough seas to reach our quiet harbor at Bartolome Island. The seasick patch behind the ear worked well to prevent problems...some of our group were not so fortunate. One of my surprises here is to gain an understanding of the vast distances between islands,

We made a dry landing ashore and climbed to the top of the highest mountain... Several lava flows can be seen from the peak.. The age of each flow is evident from the many levels of oxidation... The most recent are deep and shiny black.. Older forms ranged from brown to a weathered grey. The "recent" volcanic origin of the islands makes this a perfect natural laboratory to observe natural selection at work. South American plants and animals have occasionally drifted on log masses or have been carried by fierce winds.. The first organisms found a hostile environment... Volcanic rock and little rain. Over time some simple organisms were able to get a foothold . The surviving offspring of these organisms passed on the traits that most supported survival, and in turn these traits were tested and modified, with the survivors in each generation passing on successful traits to all later generations. The organisms that evolved are unlike any found anywhere on earth... But they are perfectly adapted for life here. An example are the famous Galapagos finches, so finely adapted that different varieties are found on each island!.. Each variety suited to local conditions, and food on that island

Afternoon... A choice...Another "snorkel activity" this time with large sea tack on the boat for lunch -I took one look and said no way Good nap and I was ready to go again.urtles or a walk along the fresh lava sea front... This is a favorite haunt for sea going iguanas, seals, sea coast foraging birds, crabs, small lizards, and an occasional sea turtle. All so tame that you approach them within a few feet. Our group found a nest of sea turtles with 2 baby turtles emerging as we watched. It is hard work to dig out of the sand when you are 3 inches long...as we watched, 2 of them made it to the sea. Sorry to say, patrolling Frigate birds made a good meal this day.

3 pm... We start a day-light trip to our next island. The sea is quite smooth. We were on the look out, but saw nothing of special interest.

A word about our ship mates...our group is speaking 4 languages. We include an Italian family with 3 children, a German couple with 2 teen age kids, a couple of Americans, the Ecuadorian crew, and Judy and I. The children and teen agers all a pleasant addition to our group.

We live in close proximity; it is a very agreeable group.

Monday morning...we spent the night in a quiet cove ...gentle rocking lulled us into long and deep sleep.

Early morning .. A dory ride ashore and we hiked for 90 minutes or so...through the midst of an immense colony of sea lions...some of them were of enormous size ! Here we also found land iguanas well suited to a diet of cactus fruit and cactus"pads". They patiently wait...sometime for many days for food to fall to them.

The north end of the island has steep faced cliffs that drop suddenly to the sea...Constantly crashing waves from the north provide the energy needed for such massive erosion.

Siestas are a very civilized thing to add to cultural life. After a busy morning we have an hour to drop off to sleep and recharge our batteries. Later we were off snorkeling in a location with many playful sea lions... They seemed drawn to us by curiosity and a playful nature. Also several sea turtles were sighted. I had trouble with water collecting in my face mask, and with the large swim fins. It was a real challenge to deal with the situation. ..fortunately the support boat was close at hand...and came to my assistance.And finally today we made a wet beach landing in the midst of a crowd of noisy sea lions ...totally fearless of us! Their cries remind me of the noisy bleating of sheep. This large group were all part of one haram, with one Alpha Male. His life is difficult due the constant threats and fights from challengers. We then walked through a forest of tree cactus looking for land iguanas, snakes, finches and hawks... We were not disappointed . Now another night journey through moderately high waves. New ear patch in place.

 

 

 

 

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Untitled

Sunday ... Bartolome

Off on another trek with a wet landing... To a location rich in seals, a nesting colony for Boobies and Frigate Birds... Also night herons, 2 varieties Sea gulls-black Lava Gulls and black and white Swallow Gulls.

Good nap! Off on another trek with a wet landing... In a location rich in seals, a nesting colony for Boobies and Frigate Birds... Also night herons, 2 varieties Sea gulls-black Lava Gulls and black and white Swallow Gulls. Today is Judy's birthday and it has been a very satisfying day! For dessert tonight a large "tres leches" cake was served with one candle for Judy to share.

We traveled half the night through rough seas to reach our quiet harbor at Bartolome Island. The seasick patch behind the ear works well to prevent problems.

Dry landing ashore and a climb to the top of the highest mountain... Several lava flows can be seen from the peak.. evident from the many levels of oxidation... The most recent deep and shiny black.. Through brown to a weathered grey. The "recent" volcanic origin of the islands make them a perfect natural laboratory for natural selection to occur.... Plants and animals have occasionally drifted on log masses or carried by fierce winds.. the first organisms found an unwelcoming environment... Volcanic rock and little rain. Over time some organisms were able to survive... Those offspring with the traits that most supported survival were passed on to the survivors... After many generations organisms evolved unlike any found else where on earth... But they are perfectly adapted for life here. The famous Galapagos finches are so perfectly adapted that different varieties are found on each island?.. Each suited to local conditions on that island.

Afternoon... Another snorkel with large sea turtles or a walk along the fresh lava sea front... A favorite haunt for small water iguanas, seals, sea coast foraging birds, crabs, small lizards, and an occasional sea turtle.

3pm... We start a day light trip to our next island.

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First impressions

First Impressions of the Galapagos

 

This morning I am thinking of the sounds of the rain forest, the river canoes, and hiking the forest trails... This while standing in a line in the Quito airport that was one of the slowest we have ever experienced. We shared the line with a group of Ecuadorian 5th graders off on a science camp excursion... Ah well, we arrived with enough time and we successfully jumped through all the hoops and now we are now flying west to the Galapagos...

It's now 5: 30 pm... First impressions... Flat black volcanic islands (no more than 30000 years old )... Scrub growth and cactus, adapted for long dry summers and rainy winters. The true character of the place began to emerge at once... We made contact with our boat, the Fragata. Judy saw the first iguana, then 2 seals, then a parade of birds presented themselves. Our first excursion was to take small boats and go ashore on Santa Cruz Island... Here we encountered a parade of organisms... First ghost crabs, who use mucous lined holes in the sand to hide, and Sally light foot crabs -(brilliant red in color), pink flamingos, and the national Geographic moment of the day was to see several hundreds of Blue Footed Boobies bombing together into a school of fish...and of course the famous black sea going iguanas. We snorkeled from a beach and saw many fish.

In the night we travelled to a different island - Genovese. The night time travel travelled through some moderately rough water...Judy and I slept the night being rocked to and fro. We both woke with moderately able stomachs, quite happy to drink coffee and eat breakfast...our motto is - "when in doubt - eat" We went ashore and climbed a rugged pathway to reach the level of the plateau. Here we discovered a land occupied by large nesting Boobies... Curiously absolutely fearless of humans. Red footed Boobies, short eared Owl roost in the trees and Narco Boobies with black or green feet are found on the ground. Also we found flying and nesting Frigate birds. The famous "Darwin's finches"...3 varieties ... That played such a major role in the development of understanding the process of evolution as first understood. The hit of the day was to make two sightings of rare Short Eared owls... Who have adapted to day time feeding on the plentiful Stormy Petrels that sweep through the air like a flock of swallows. One of the most exotic birds is the Red Billed Tropic bird - a Large white bird with 2 long white feathers... Flying out behind the bird.

Thinking that our morning morning was about enough excitement for one day I was delighted to snorkel again along an undersea rock wall... With our gear on we fell backwards out of the small skiff, and drifted along close to the rocks... Unbelievable! I floated above a large school of brightly colored tropical fish - big fish... As they drifted -so did I! So many surprises -such a large density both of numbers of fish and varieties of fish. Below the water fell to a great green depth. The fish I swam with we're fearless and quite happy to share their space with me. Back on the boat for lunch -I took one look and suddenly said "No way"... So I attached a seasick patch behind my ear and waited a few minutes... Miracle!

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Quito

Quito, at 9300 ft, is surrounded by high volcanic mountains. The city, built on many hills, it long and narrow. Ecuador is an example of a developing nation. It is old, very old, dating back to the days of the Inca. There are fine examples of the best in gothic style churches, every style since, and a style that we are beginning to recognize as purely Ecuadorian. In the "old city" the streets are narrow and lined with well maintained, often colorful, homes. It Is worthy of its designation as a world heritage site. If we had just come from Mexico we would remark on his clean and prosperous it is. People coming from wealthy first world countries find it less so. It is a city of contrasts. We find the streets well maintained, with no trash. We are amazed to find many high end shops and restaurants... Even great huge shopping centers with the latest and best of everything. We also see evidence of deeply engrained poverty.... Both in the cities and in farm villages. It is a country attempting to grow. We suspect that the most wealthy are involved in tourism, lumber (from the rain forest), mining and oil, and perhaps some in the cocaine trade. A variety of foreign countries are interested in oil, mineral, and forest product rights, and offer easy loans in exchange... Tempting ...but they are giving away the wealth of the country for personal gain. Another landmark trait of this country is many cars, very cheap gasoline, smoggy air that tends to collect in the day and blow away in the night.

Adventures come in different flavors! Judy had found word in a guidebook about a nearby village with a cottage industry of molded colorful small figures... and we were hopeful of finding the place. We asked for advice in our hotel, and early in the morning we left our hostel and walked over to the nearest tram stop. We found the tram car more than jammed body against body full... But were encouraged to push on in. We did... Taking every precaution against pick pockets... A big problem here. Self appointed angels appear when needed... A woman took us under her wing to point out the correct exit and since she was going to the same place guided us to the correct bus, and exit. The town, we found, was a place where everyday life occurred. There were only a few of the special shop/workshops to be found, but the work they produced was whimsical and excellent.

This is our favorite way to experience a small town... Venturing out to be with the people... To set off across a foreign city, dependent on our language skills and a map, and hoping for the appearance of an angel! We returned looking like loaded llamas! Also along the way home we visited some of the grandest churches we have seen anywhere.

Today is a day of preparing for our next step... We will fly tomorrow for the Galapagos... We must store some luggage here in the hotel to meet the weight limits on the boat and our willingness to haul a suitcase full of souvenirs.

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Shaman and Pink Dolphins

This morning we traveled down the river that passes near to our lodge ( the Pastasa River) until we joined the "great river" (CapawariRiver) just downstream. In our morning canoe rides we see Toucans, Parrots, once a great cloud of green motion caused by a flock of flying parakeets. After 10 minutes of river travel we reached the village located high on a bluff above the river. After climbing a steep trail to reach the collection of houses... Each house is different to meet the needs of that family. The shaman, an elder of the village, welcomed us into his open air home. He was probably over 70 years old with a deeply lined face. He wore a red, yellow, and black headband made of feathers. A variety of medallions and beads hung around his neck. He wore no shoes. His eyes suggested that had gone many times into the land of hallucinations with his forest drugs. After the formal exchange of greeting, we each told him a bit about ourselves. He listened carefully, sometimes asking a question. Then he asked if we had questions for him. I asked him about the work of a shaman in the village. He answered that he was a doctor for the people, using plants that he found in the forest. His people believe in a spirit found in all parts of the forest -Aruemtum. If bad spirits had entered a person and he or she becomes sick... He could dispel those spirits with a cleansing ceremony. He takes a hallucinogen to see the patients bad spirits... And then he removes them. Sometimes the patient must also take the hallucinogens. He can interpret dreams. Every male must go alone into the forest after taking the hallucinogen for the experience of self knowledge. The process is guided and interpreted by the Shamen. This first happens at the age of 8... but can be repeated throughout life when needed. He said that when a European or North American has the drug they also see visions of the jungle and jungle animals. He is paid for his services in local produce, chickens, or silver money. In case you are wondering we did not avail ourselves of his services.

Coming here has opened my eyes to a number of realities about the fain forest. The government of Ecuador, and to a large measure the people,are attracted to the money that can be gained from oil development. The money from the oil development comes largely from China ...who is eager to gain oil and mineral rights...never mind the great damage it would do to fragile animal populations, ecosystems, and to the lives of indigenous people. There are also those eager to cut and burn the rain forest to create farming land - despite the well known fact that due to the fact that these are tropical latericic soils which quickly within a few years become depleted and useless for raising crops. Also in areas where many humans are found the animal populations have been seriously depleted. The Eco tourism industry in a promising alternative to the destruction of the environment. People of the world are drawn to experiencing this natural environment, it's plants, and animal life. This provides steady income for the government and for the people of the forest... And best, its totally renewable.

Through natural selection many ocean animals have over thousands of generations adapted to the fresh water of the Amazon River basin. One example is the famous pink river dolphin... Hunting by humans has caused them to be quite secretive... But we had a brief sighting yesterday... And several times we have them surface... But at a distance.

I suppose that the best way to leave a place is wishing for more... But the rain forest has become a new favorite.

P. S. Our final activity in the rain forest was to be taken by motor canoe way up stream and then given two person kayaks to return to kapawi. So beautiful to drift along a small jungle river... Out only task was to keep the kayak pointed downstream. Suddenly we notice a rapidly moving cloud and a brief intense wind... Then we were hit by a tropical downpour... By now we were veterans... The rain was warm, the scene was incredibly beautiful... So we quickly put on our ponchos and continued our trek...

 

Then it was time to fly out... At the airstrip it began to rain again... So we were delayed... Our plane threw mud and water into the arias we took off. The pilot wanted to give us a special thrill and so he flew his old Cessna 6 passenger plane just as close to the river surface as possible... It was pretty cool especially when he banked and turned...

 

Que lastima! Once back in Shell Ecuador, we took a small bus for 4 hours and we are now back in Quito. Time to regroup, then off to the Galapagos...

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Luminescent butterflies and Achuar beer

Simon leads the way with a sharp machete to open the trail for us. He is our local Achuar guide, who speaks Spanish and Achuar. Carlos is our translator and naturalist who explains what we are encountering. They are both knowledgable and very likable. After them, our group of six proceeds. At least once a day we go for a 3 hr (or so) walk in the jungle. It's never possible to predict what we will find.... Sometimes it's fungi and birds... We have seen mammals, fascinating insects, birds, unusual amphibians, giant luminous butterflies, and always amazing plants... Every day is a day of surprises and a wonderful sense of adventure. The trail is often muddy, sometimes with deep mud or standing water. (It is after all a rain forest)... And when it is raining we go anyway with our rain gear. My two greatest surprises have been... There have been no clouds of mosquitos and the temperatures have been mostly very comfortable.

We have just returned from a an indigenous village visit, where we were received as guests. The house was open to the open air with a 6 ft. of open exposure on all sides of the house... It was built in an oval shape... About 10 yards across and about 20 yards long. There was a high thatched roof, timbers forming a strong internal scaffold. The roof was covered with a tight palm thatch. The floor of this space was earth in which chickens scratched and dogs were free to wander.The man and his wife lived here with 3 sons and a daughter.. Upon entering tradition required that we offer our thanks to the host (phonetically saying "we WAH he") almost immediately we were treated to a bowl of "CHE cha" maniac beer (the process of making it requires partial mastication before starting the fermentation) It is considered impolite not to accept -we did and responded with a polite thank you(MAK a tah), when we were served. The wife offered me one small bowl of the beverage and then she filled my bowl again when she saw that it was empty. The entire exchange was quite formal followings a certain sequence. These people are completely self sufficient, growing their food or collecting it from the forest and river. Medicines when needed also come from the forest. Their challenge is to maintain their traditional life in the face of "the outside world" encroaching on them. They made a little extra money by making pottery or sale. When we left our new friends we gave the ritual goodbye (whe AHRE hi). It was a jolly exchange.

Our life here is very pleasant with a wake up call at six, quick cup of coffee then off on a canoe expedition- morning is often the best time to spot birds, monkeys, and other critters... Back for breakfast... Then off on an often strenuous trek through the jungle, excellent late lunch (often with local foods). Time for a two hour siesta, then another activity, dinners... and usually a night time adventure. The rain forest is so addictive... We are afraid to miss any of it because we never know when something fascinating will be spotted. There is always something new to encounter. The peace that I feel in the forest is incredible! This is not a luxury resort where you come to relax, but it is a place to discover great truth about the world and about yourself.

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Entering the rain forest

It's true what they say about the tropical night. Here at the equator the sun sets at 6pm (every day of the year),... And within 30 minutes it is full dark. We slept last night in our little casita that lies between a river tributary of the Amazon River and the rain forest. The music we went to sleep by was an orchestra of frogs, night birds and insects...the sweet musty smell of the rain forest enters our screened-in window. But I need to go back and start at the beginning.

Monday morning after traveling across Ecuador from the coastal lands through the mountains to the edge of the eastern region, We reached the edge of the rainforest. Here we found an airstrip with 3 small planes. Our 5 passenger plane loaded and took us on one of the greatest adventures of our lives! We flew for over an hour over the amazing unbroken rainforest... Looking down from above it was a study in biodiversity and plant dispersal. Judy and we like two happy kids writing notes to each other about what we were seeing. The roar of the engines made it impossible to speak. This rainforest has been called the "lungs of the planet" Earth, because of the enormous importance of this great forest in absorbing carbon dioxide and releasing oxygen. We flew at 4000 ft until encountered clouds, then dropped to 2000 ft, which put us right above the forest. We landed on a dirt strip that had been cleared in the jungle Our welcoming committee was a group of indigenous kids that stood watching alongside the track. A more official group of local village folks from the eco-center led us to the lodge. I can't think of another time in my life when I have had a greater sense of awe and amazement than this first trek through the rainforest 'jungle'. The sounds are amazing... Birds, insects, frogs, unknown bleeps and peeps... The air is warm but pleasant. The smell of the air is that of blossoms, growth and decay coming from the forest. We have been happily surprised to encounter few mosquitos. We will live for a week in a simple "house" made of local materials built using local methods of construction..no nails are used. Inside we discovered comfortable amenities and our neighbors are "muy simpatico" our house is built on pilings that extend over a pond, an offshoot of the nearby river. There are great noisy frogs that Sing their varied songs throughout the night...One giant lives under our house! Judy and I are like two small children as we discover one amazing thing after another. To walk through the jungle is to experience a new and wonderful world.. Everything...plants, mammals, insects, birds, fungus...everything is in constant competition for living space and light, competition for getting nutrition and defenses so that they may survive. Everywhere we turn we are amazed and delighted by new and curious (to us ) forms of life. To stand alone in the jungle and be truly there is a humbling and spiritual experience. We feel a great peace in this place.

This Eco-lodge was developed to make it possible for more people to experience the great rain forest of Ecuador. It also serves as an opportunity for training indigenous people into how to provide eco-tourism which improves the life of the local people by providing employment for many without disruption of traditional life.

When the life on our planet was destroyed under the ice of past ice-ages, this region continued to thrive and evolve from ages past. The products of the rain forest are of immensely greater value than the short time profits that would go to a few if the rain forests were cut or minerals in the ground extracted. If the forest were destroyed the great genetic wealth found in the organisms of this place would be lost.

The developers of this place have turned over full management to the local indigenous people. And they are well trained and doing a fine job. This is not a luxury resort where one comes to relax... Days are filled with strenuous hikes through the remain forest, visits to indigenous villages, wildlife viewing from

"dugout" canoes, an leisurely kayak treks down small rivers Meals are gourmet if sometimes made from unfamiliar foods... They are always delicious. We feel a bit like this is summer camp for adults.

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John & Judy ...Ecuador Journal #1

Check lists completed ... house sitters in place...'mimimal' packs loaded...And we are ready to 'fly the coop'. We took the Red eye' from San Francisco to Lima. Considering that we got four hours of sleep during the flight we are doing quite well! Our first sight of South America was a flaming sunrise from 35000 ft., "as the sun slowly rose in majesty over the Andes". We have a new favorite airline... LAN is a Chilean company that provides a high level of comfort and service. In this day and age of uncertain airline food, we were served real food, well prepared. Airports are never a good place to learn about a country...certainly true of Lima... Our guide book suggests that Lima is where you go to do business, but not a good place to experience Peru. Later in our trip we return to Peru and Lima is somewhat ini the middle of our travels...a good place to start and end. On this particular day, Lima weather was identical to the summer overcast found in San Francisco. Same cold dampness. So after a three hour layover, we are once more airborne...Headed more or less north.This time our destination is Quito Ecuador which is closer to our first real destination. The geology that I see from the air is impressive... We see vast fields of lava,apparently quite recent.

Arrival in Quito...first impressions...We are staying in the traditional part of town ...it is listed as a world heritage site by UNESCO ...Many of the buildings are built of gray volcanic stone and streets are narrow in the early neighborhood of the cathedral, We are staying in the Secret Garden Hostel... The place reminds me of my travels during early 20s when I explored Europe, sleeping in youth hostels. Most of the fellow guests are under 30 in age and off on great adventures. Each evening the visitors gather in the rooftop patio (with a grand view of the entire city) We sit and share stories of our daily adventures and share useful travel information...It is a time to relax, enjoy a beer, and watch the evening shadows come on... The hostel provides a fixed price meal each night... Good basic food... Delicious... And much easier than trekking off to another restaurant.

Saturday was our first real day and we joined a small group to ride out in a van to a livestock sale in a neighboring town. Here the descendants of the Mayan indigenous people come to buy and sell their animals. Here were pigs, chickens, goats, guinea pigs, cows... Them and the local people coming together to share the events of their lives, to see friends, and sell their animals...It is a grand confusion of noise and people. Close by is the greatest once a week special market for all products ...both for the needs of the locals and products to lure the tourists.

Now Sunday morning we are attempting to meet the 25 pound limit for out trip into the rainforest... Our other luggage can be stored here until we return Ina week. We hear rumors that there may be some sort of satellite internet. We will see,,,

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Summer Break

Its time to push "reset".  I am going to give myself a few weeks for a change of pace, resuming my regular blogs in September.

IMAGES show some places within a days travel of home (car or air)  that we have enjoyed other summers...

Pacific Ocean - Pt. Reyes

Sail Boat harbor - Pacific Coast

Sierra Mts. out the window from our airplane

High desert- Nevada

California coastal Mountains -a foggy morning

Our Bay Area - we live in Fremont ...

 Best summer wishes to you all!! 

Finding Meaning in Life & Cultural Value in Niles

There is a Buddhist temple not far from our house with two large statues in front – one of a red faced angry revengeful figure 

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and the other of a beautiful peaceful woman dressed in white.  These do not represent ‘gods’ but represent instead the potential within each of us to make daily choices about how we will deal with others. 

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In fact within a single day there are times that we are like the angry red-faced guy and times that we do kindnesses for others. The figures serve as a visual reminder of the choices open to us all the time.  

In Niles we have several varieties of Buddhists: Thai,Japanese, Cambodian,and the newest is the Chinese Buddhist church that I spoke of above. Some Chinese Buddhist temples also include elements and figures from the Taoist tradition - which I suspect is true for the figures above.

The Buddhists speak of of seeking a middle way – avoiding the excessed of overindulgence and self seeking and avoiding the extreme renunciation of all things “of this world”.  They advocate a process of practicing mindfulness – of developing a calm demeanor by learning to rid the mind of excess ‘noise’. 

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Living in multicultural Fremont I have frequent encounters with people of many traditions and belief systems. Knowing individuals and being open to talk is my way to learn – For me its about listening and asking questions.  I am not being ‘converted’ to their belief system... but I can find much of value to learn from each.

Monday is the start of the season of Ramadan, a month long time set aside for spiritual renewal for Muslims.   Fasting is expected of all adult Muslims, except those who are ill, traveling, pregnant, or diabetic.   Fasting of food and beverages is continuous from  dawn until sunset for the entire month.

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Food and drink is served daily, before sunrise and after sunset.  According to Islam, the rewards of keeping true to Ramadan result in a practical refocusing of your life.  I recall the pride that my Muslim students felt in meeting the daily challenge.

Interesting Christian article on Ramadan:  “Christians need a Ramadan” http://www.christiancentury.org/blogs/archive/2011-08/christians-need-ramadan

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Ramadan is measured by the lunar calendar from one new moon to the next – this results in the season slowly shifting through the calendar year – This year will be particularly trying in the Northern Hemisphere because it is occurring during the season of maximum heat. (Remember... no drinking of water during daylight hours).  Now is the time to send electronic ecards to your Muslim friends ( just do a Google search for Ramadan cards - then click "images"...

We also have a major Sikh Gurdwara (temple) not far from our house.  The Sikh people are  from the Punjab region of northwestern India and have roots in the Hindu tradition – but they are monotheists like Christians and Muslims.

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They base their religion on a holy book, which in read in every service. They are noted for requiring all men to perform 5 duties: Five Ks: uncut hair (Kesh); an iron/steel bracelet (kara); a Kirpan, a sword tucked in a gatra strap; Kachehra, a cotton undergarment; and a Kanga, a small wooden comb. Baptized male Sikhs must cover their hair with a turban, while baptized female Sikhs can choose to wear a turban.  Since the men keep their hair for a lifetime, they need to turban to keep it covered.

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 One thing I especially admire about the Sikhs is their open generosity of maintaining an open dining room with a selection of freshly prepared spicy Sikh dishes offered free to everyone.  You take a metal tray with compartments, pass through a cafeteria line get “chai” tea to drink and then sit on the floor and eat with the Naan bread as a scoop.  I once went over to register voters and was treated with great hospitality and kindness. The food was delicious.

Judy and I are active members of a Christian community church in Niles formed by the merger of a United Church of Christ church and a Disciples of Christ church.

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It has been a healthy practice to join two congregations – while we agree very well on theological issues there are church practices that differ and these have had to be ironed out... no great conflict but it still requires careful give and take. 

To understand us better- take a look at our statement of belief :  http://www.nilesdiscoverychurch.org/ndc.php?page=Beliefs

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Many churches of different denominations, in America and around the world, are aligning themselves with the principles of the Christian Progressive Movement.  We strongly identify with that tradition.  To find out what Progressive Christians believe visit: http://progressivechristianity.org  Click on "About us"... then take a look at the 8 points.  These are not requirements, but a growing number of churches are moving toward the new areas of focus.

We have no Jewish synagogues, Hindu temples,  or Taoist centers  in the Niles area - but they are located elsewhere in Fremont.