6/13
Last day in Ollantaytambo. The
’dueno’ in our pension suggested that we ‘had’ to go to “Naupaiiglesia”…other local
people helped us refine the trip to make it even more interesting… and so after
another incredible breakfast we walked down our narrow street with the flowing water
in the stone lined ditch. We went to the
Mercado (market area) and climbed into a collectivo about ready to leave – and
off we went… We were dropped roadside near a small pueblo and walked steadily uphill
for a couple of hours up another of the amazing canyons of the Andes. Incredibly steep walls, a river forming bends
and turns in a narrow flood plane, a narrow gauge railway, and a very narrow
road.
Today the sun was extraordinarily
hot – and we were relieved to climb high enough to find a breeze. Farmers along the way kept us on the correct
path…and we inquired frequently. Finally
the site. We left the “camino” and
walked along narrow gauge rail lines for a distance, until we located a trail
that led up to the ruins. At first it
was easy going, but it became progressively steeper until we were climbing hand
over hand past steep terraces and rock walls.
This site is different from
others here – it predated the time of the Inca – and represents a different
belief system. For these people, when
the earth was formed there was no light and no dark – only a constant twilight.
During these times the spirits were very strong in the land. When the Sun God “Inti” brought night and
day, the Naupa spirits were forced to retreat to the high mountains. Here the
spirits lost much of their power at all times except dawn and dusk. The grotto we visited was considered a “portal”
for the spirits – and was a place of worship.
It is said to be dangerous to health to visit the site in dawn or dusk,
when the spirits were most active. (The sun was shining bright when we were
there). When I entered the grotto I
found a fresh earthen pot containing a libation for the spirits, also burnt
Palo Santo – a local wood burned as sweet incense, along with shells from the
ocean. Such evidence indicated that the spirits are still held in high regard
by some of the local people. Here in the
grotto it was cool and pleasant to look down on the valley below.
After a rest it was time to climb
down from the heights to the trail and we started back to the main road… we were
hoping to hitch hike – but not a single vehicle came by… So we walked back to
the main road where we had more luck and
got a collectivo back to town - just in
time for a late comida. Note – here we are eating 2 big meals a day – one in
the early morning, one about 2-3, and a light snack in the evening.
6.14 The large unified Incan nation was only possible because
of the excellent foot trail system that united the communities. A system of human runners could deliver a
message from one end of the kingdom to a far distant region within days. (Much like our pony express – but with human
runners). Yesterday we hiked 6 hours
along a trail from Qantus Racca down to Acchapata and on to Pisac. There is a
great elevation change in the trail so we started the day early with a taxi
ride to the top - Qantus Racca. Here the elevation is well over 11000 ft. We found masses of tourists from busses at
the trailhead – but lost them quickly as we got a short distance along our
way. Along our trail we visited a variety of Incan
sites – some centers of residence, others military centers, government, astronomy/science,
and religious sites. The entire trail
offered us incredible views of the Andes; much of the trail was carved into
rock with an intense cliff drop-off to one side, with a drop of several hundreds
of feet, and a wall rising high above us on the other side. The trail was wide
enough to lead a string of heavily laden llamas. It has been said that next to Machu Picchu
this is the greatest Incan site. We came
away with the thought that this is different but in many ways equal in grandeur
of Machu Picchu… it certainly offers more variety of communities and
structures, and offers grand vistas for the entire region. At one point I was taken aback to look over
the edge of the trail and realize that I was inches away from ‘yikes’!… with no
rail or warning of any kind. Today’s experience was incredible! And we went
immediately to a favorite restaurant for a grand comida, however a bit
late. It is operated by a German expat
woman, Ulrike’s – she has a great take on Peruvian dishes – but also wonderful
German deserts.
6/15
Today is market day in Pisac. Many indigenous people come down from the
high lands to sell vegetables, herbs, and craft items. However much of the regular items for sale
are tourist schlock – the kind of stuff you see in all tourist centers …much of
it is mass-produced. The tourists are rushed around on a “few hours
here and a few there” tours, and they miss so much of the real Peru.
Judy seemed to pick up a strange
‘bug’ today – so she has slept a lot and I have been doctoring her. Our favorite restaurant in town is the
previously mentioned Ulrike’s. She helped me select food for Judy’s sick tummy.
(Not cheese cake).
We are generally sleeping over 8
hours a night here – nights are cold as air moves down from the higher
mountains… most hotels are providing us with thick down comforters – and we
have often been so warm we open a window.
Our current hotel supplies thick heavy wool blankets – we are sleeping
under the great weight of 3 or 4 of them…
