Report 2 – Czech
Republic 7.23.15
To set the proper
tone for this blog, listen with “Ma Vlast” by Bedrich Smetana in the background
...
Prague is
magnificent –It has prospered for over a 1000 years, serving as a center for
political power, commerce, and cultural arts.
It was a center of power and glory before Columbus came to America! Given its great wealth and long history, the
architecture is a treasure of Romanesque, Gothic, and Renaissance styles. Today
the inner city is a recognized “world heritage center”. The old town of Staré Město is located at the base of the great
castle and cathedral. So much human
history has occurred here! Across the Vltava
River is the Nové Město district with its classy neo-renaissance buildings,
museums, squares, and theaters. We
stayed with our exchange student and his wife in his large apartment
overlooking Castle hill and the Vltava River in Nové Město … Beautiful
location!
Prague offers amazing sights. The city was not bombed in the Second WW.; so
buildings and streets, cathedrals and classic houses are still intact. To
maximize your enjoyment of Prague, “avoid areas overrun with tourists”. Venerable
old Charles Bridge is a joy in the early morning – but forget it later when the
crowds, street hawkers and guitar players fill the bridge. There are many wonderful classic historic locations
to choose between . We love to get lost in the old narrow streets of Staré
Město. These narrow stone streets with
fascinating shops and homes date back hundreds of years. They say that all Czechs are musicians – at
least music of many types is much loved by all – especially in Pargue Judy
and I attended a ballet with music by Prokofiev, the Laterna Magina show, and a summertime popular
music festival in a park by the riverside. These days there are many small
concerts in churches – some are OK, but in many cases they are held to raise
money.
Many city people (Prague and other Czech cities) have
city homes but also have a country cottage – In some cases these may be the
family country farmhouse once owned by grandparents. Often they are a specially made “chata” (what
the Russians called a “Dacha”)… they can be simple cabins – but are often nice
homes… We were told that many live in the city apartment during the workweek
and then enjoy the country life on weekends and holidays. It wasn't unusual to
find that the ‘chata’ was nicer and better furnished than the city home. In
California, ‘cabins’ are often hours of travel away from home – in Bohemia is
it common to travel little more than ½ hour to the tranquility of the
countryside home.
We spent 3 weeks of our travel visiting in the homes
and ‘chata’s’ of my newfound cousins. My new relatives were all so very kind;
showing us points of local interest; castles, natural sites, family churches
and homes, evening events, and historic sites… We often walked good long distances
in our outings. In addition they
prepared for us the most delicious traditional meals and baked goods. The Bohemian cuisine is amazing! Also the Czech beer and plum brandy - So
good! (The common toast is "Na zdravi!"- and you must make eye contact when you say it. ) Communication was sometimes a
challenge – but was usually someone to translate and if nothing
else we drew pictures, used German, or Google Translate. I felt such a kinship with all my new cousins
and am very fond of them all!
This month, I learned so much! ...about culinary and healing herbs, and
Linden flowers ( a valueable herb for respiratory problems)... about picking
big red Bohemian cherries, I learned
about “Unter Wasser Man” “the man proported to live under water in
rivers, ponds and canal who likes to snare unaware children – when they drown
he takes their souls in little boxes or teacups.” There are statues of this guy frequently in
ponds or canals. Certain other figures are used to warn children about staying
out too late after dark and not going to sleep in naptime… Kind of like our
concept of the ‘Bogie man”. I learned how
to make several varieties of kolach, how to grow “mak” poppy seed, how to make
Czech style pizza in an outdoor oven, and how to speak about 60 words of Czech.,
and I learned so much about Europen history and how it has intersected with my
family.
Czech cuisine is quite different from American fare…Each
meal begins with everyone saying “Dobrou chut'!” – “Enjoy your
meal!”
The breakfast that we were often served was fresh
white Bread rolls, slices of rye bread served with slices of processed ham, a
variety cheeses, ‘quark’ or yogurt, jam (djam) and coffee. Sometimes cold hard-boiled eggs were also
served. It wasn't unusual to have fresh
baked breakfast kolache (there are many forms)
for breakfast too.
The midday meal (served from 12 – 2 PM) was usually
the big meal of the day – almost always starting with a bowl of homemade soup, the
main dish was frequently pork or beef meat served with vegetables or large
dumplings sliced into convenient pieces, gravy.
But the ‘dinner’ menu could vary tremendously to include schnitzel,
stews, a wide variety of sauces and vegetables, meat fried, roasted, stewed… One
of my favorites was a grated fresh potato and onion pancake served with sour
cream. – Ah! So good!! A wide variety of
garnishes might be included: Sauerkraut (cooked as zeli), mild dill pickles,
potato/tomato/onion salad, olives, cheese… Beer or wine was often served with
the food. These meals were an art form –
magnificent!
The evening meal was usually served between 7-8 PM and
was generally a light meal. It might be
a smaller dish, soup, stew, schnitzel made with cauliflower, etc. One of my favorites was the endless variety
of small open-faced sandwiches. “Obložené Chlebí” I liked the ones with a dollop of
potato salad, a bit of ham, a thin slice of tomato, and topped with a small bit
of cheese…Generally they came to the table with several types arrayed on a
tray. Here is the recipe to get you started: http://www.food.com/recipe/czech-open-faced-sandwiches-oblo-en-chleb-ky-511760
The cuisine of ‘supper’ was most always light and took
many forms.
Incredible homemade cakes and pastries were a
frequent addition to the meal along with beer or wine…Sometimes we ended with
small glasses of plum brandy (slivovitz). It was explained to us that some foods were
winter foods – like Potato dumplings with Pork and gravy. Summer foods would be lighter making use of
summer vegetables and salads.
Czech history has affected all families. Prior to the First World War,
“Czechoslovakia” was part of the vast Austro-Hungarian empire centered in
Vienna. After the first World War,
Czechoslovakoia emerging as a free country included rediscovery of the Slavic
identity distinct from Austria and Germany influence. This
was a golden time of high ideals, good government, a blooming of the arts and
industry. The Second World War, with
occupation by Germany was a harsh time. The
Zlatnik and Sadek families lived in the region of north Bohemia called
Sudatenland. The Nazis insisted that all
Czechs must leave the area and move into the heart of Czechoslovakia. After the war, the Czechs could reclaim their
homes - and all Germans were required to move to Germany. After freedom returned it was short lived before
Communist domination. These were times
when even passive resistance was dangerous… times when open resistance could be
fatal and often was futile. With the Prague Spring and the lifting of Communism there came a time of
energy and creativity… Many people today
work long hours in order to accomplish what was not possible a few years ago…
Modern Czech Republic has a number of very
enlightened social policies - all qualified students can attend the Prestegious
Charles Univeristy in Prague at no cost (The future of the Czech Republic depends on enabling of all qualified students
to get the education they need to benefit the country.)
Female
employees are entitled to 28 weeks paid maternity leave beginning six to eight
weeks prior to birth, during which time they can collect assistance. Fathers
may take over the leave, by written agreement, seven weeks after childbirth.
Healthcare
(including dental treatment) is free to all citizens in the Czech Republic. It is provided through compulsory contributions to a
state approved insurance fund. Healthcare costs here are well below the
European average, yet standards are in line with some of the best health
centres in Western Europe.
Taxes
in the Czech Republic are levied by both the state and local governments. The
most important sources of revenue include the income tax, social security
contributions, value-added tax and the corporate tax.
Income taxes in Czech Republic are levied at a flat rate of 15% on gross income. The
total tax burden can largely be described as flat to regressive as no
progressive taxed are levied.
